hi,

I have been running my hap ax2 for about 10 days now and i think it will become a permanent element of my home, I just wanted to thank Mikrotik for the user/config experience which is incredible for me as home user. I have created my LANs and tweaked them as per my needs as a home worker. only point to mention when you get about 5/10 meters from the device the signal strength already drops.

Anyhow I'm thinking of getting the hap ax3 for my second home which has rooms that are slightly larger, thanks to the ax2 experience i am now more confident in the "mikrotik " world!!
1) I know that the ax3 comes with a predefined config, can I factory reset and then upload the same config from my ax2 device? do you recommend? if yes can you share the process to follow to download and upload a config??

2) I guess the winbox I use for the ax2 is the same for the the ax3?

ciao,
Antonio

The ax3 is said by many to have worse wifi reach that the ax2, search the board, there are contrasting reports, but the issue is raised too often to be completely unfounded.

If you are happy with the Ax2, you would probably be better served by another Ax2 and an added access point or repeater in your other larger house.

You cannot "really" copy configuration between devices, not even the same exact make/model.

There is a sort of backup/restore mechanism that is intended to be used ONLY on the same device, DO NOT even think of using that.

What you can do is export your full configuration, and then with some patience and a lot of attention, copy from it relevant lines or sets of lines and paste them in the configuration of the new device.

It is not difficult, but it takes some time, and some attention, the biggest issue is AFAIK, even with relatively simple configurations that the lines need to be pasted/inserted in the new configuration with a logic order (which is not necessarily the order of the lines in the export) otherwise they will be rejected because (example) you are changing a setting on something (like an interface or routing table) that has not yet been created on the new device.

In this way - and within limits - you can actually replicate a same config even on other devices (different hardware model).

hi,

ah was not expecting to hear this about the AX2, then at this stage the best would actually be a second ax2.

thank you for the heads up!!!

ciao,
Antonio

hAP ax3 should have better antennas and better coverage. By looking at those reports, it seems that either a few users have not properly attached their external antennas, or there might be some hardware defect. I suggest to email support if you have a unit that performs worse than ax2

Come on Normis, most people reporting those issues know where their towel (and their antennas) are.

Anyway, no matter if Ax2 or Ax3, due to the limitations in transmit power (by regulators) and of the peculiarities of wi-fi, if you want to cover larger surfaces, particularly with 5 GHz, you are generally speaking better served by more access points.

Sure it will cost something more, but the (perceived/publicized) superiority of Ax3 over the Ax2 even if it exists at all (which is what is doubted by many) isn't probably enough to cover a bigger house.

If OP is happy with the Ax2 for his smaller home, in a bigger one an Ax2+an access point will be needed, an Ax3+access point would do essentially the same, but spending some 40 dollars/euro more, an Ax3 alone (as well as an Ax2 alone) would probably not be enough.

If an Ax3 is required for any other of its features (superior to the Ax2) that is another thing.

hAP ax3 should have better antennas and better coverage. By looking at those reports, it seems that either a few users have not properly attached their external antennas, or there might be some hardware defect. I suggest to email support if you have a unit that performs worse than ax2

Unless I am reading the wireless specification table wrong: the AX2 achieves the same receive-sensitivity with less transmit power. Isn't that better?

hi Guys,

I like to try new things!!

I work in the telecoms ecosystem as PM for interco relations and large telco SIP network design.
I' not a network engineer and getting my hands dirty for the first time with networking IPs and things with Mikrotik!! Cisco is not for me!
I have been researching the topic for months because I work from home many days and wanted to get a nice device for my work space and at the end Mikrotik came into the picture, a mikrotik reseller/trainer told me that mikrotik was not plug and play and to go with ubiquiti, every day this grew as a challenge.. so here I am with my ax^2!!!
the ax^3 costs 113 Euros on wisp.store ( amazon 146 Euros)
Regardless of what has been said I will get the ax^3 device and tweak it more or less like the ax2
so all I ask to you gurus be there in the moments i will need you..

ciao,
Antonio

Unless I am reading the wireless specification table wrong: the AX2 achieves the same receive-sensitivity with less transmit power. Isn't that better?

Tx power helps client to hear AP better. Rx sensitivity helps AP to hear better. So they are pretty unrelated.

The difference in Tx power between ax2 and ax3 is 2dB at most, different in antenna gain is another dB or two, so they won't make much of a difference. It's illusive to expect any notable difference in coveeage between these two devices.

It is not difficult, but it takes some time, and some attention, the biggest issue is AFAIK, even with relatively simple configurations that the lines need to be pasted/inserted in the new configuration with a logic order (which is not necessarily the order of the lines in the export) otherwise they will be rejected because (example) you are changing a setting on something (like an interface or routing table) that has not yet been created on the new device.

Well, that should not be true and when you discover a case like that you should report it as a bug.
I have seen this problem in the past, but with the version I currently use (7.12.1) it is no longer present, I think.

As mentioned, it is not easy to transfer configuration from one MikroTik device to another, but the problems should be limited to commands that are valid on one device but not on the other. E.g. refer to an interface that does not exist.

Also, when just pasting parts of export of one device into another, you can run into the situation where a command of the "add" form tries to add something that already exists on the destination (due to default config). Commands that "set" something do not suffer from that.
In some cases doing the same "add" twice will not be rejected but will result in nonsense- or wrong configuration (e.g. firewall rules).

So indeed it is tricky, but not for the reason of "order of commands".

Happy to learn that it is not (anymore?) the case.
I am pretty sure (but I cannot point to a specific case) that when I was doing (crazy) experiments (in CHR/GNS3 with 7.11.2) it happened to me.
I use now an excel spreadsheet to compare the "final" exported configuration from one device with the already present default configuration of the new one.
It is not that bad, though it cannot be automated as essentially the same command can result different due to comments or (say) an automatically added disabled=no.

Hi,
in the file list there is a file called auto-before-reset.backup, what exactly is this file?

i have not created any backup of my configuration, is this good practice to do? if yes what are the copmands to do this?

ciao,
Antonio

The auto-before-reset.backup is created when you reset the settings to defaults.
You can remove that file when you no longer need it (and you can skip the creation of the file when doing the reset).

To backup the config there are two ways:
- backup. that creates a .backup file which is a binary file THAT CAN ONLY BE RESTORED ON THE SAME DEVICE IT WAS CREATED ON.
- export. that creates a .rsc file which is a text file with a list of commandline commands that would create the same configuration.

Advantage of backup is that it is easy to restore. When you still have the device. When the device breaks and you buy another, it is useless.
Advantage of export is that you can print it or load it into an editor and see what is going on. And you can copy/paste sections of the file into a commandline window to put back parts of a configuration or transfer parts to a new device.
But it requires some knowledge of commandline mode, and the structure of the export file. Plus some understanding of how
commands affect the configuration (e.g. the difference between "add" and "set" commands).

hi,

two more questions:

1) where do i find the export button ? it doesn't seem to be in the files section?

2) if i need to manage a second Mikrotik router from the same computer can I use the same winbox? or do i need to click on new winbox??

ciao,
Antonio

1
Terminal
/export file=anynameyouwish

2
Yes, same winbox.

Use Terminal for export, step by step here:
viewtopic.php?t=203686#p1051720

Thank you so much!

looks easy!!

Mikrotik is making me see many things..

I have the connections tab open on the Firewall to see what is happening.. sometime i see apple IPs that are the source connectinbg to my iphone and tghen my iphone conenctiong to the APPLE IPs..

i guess apple connects to peoples iphones?? what are they scanning for would you know??

ciao,
Antonio

Another advantage of Backup is that the file is AES encrypted with a password of your choosing. This means that if you lose control of it (e.g. it's on a USB stick that you leave somewhere by mistake), there's an almost zero risk that someone can work out your configuration. An .rsc file created with "show-sensitive" is just a text file and will contain ISP and wireless passwords. So you need to be more careful protecting it.

Default export in ROS7 uses show_sensitive=no. So unless you explicitly set that to yes, no passwords should be exported (and even then not everything comes through... been there, done that).

(BTW In ROS6 it was named differently yet result was also different: hide-sensitive=no)

Another advantage of Backup is that the file is AES encrypted with a password of your choosing. This means that if you lose control of it (e.g. it's on a USB stick that you leave somewhere by mistake), there's an almost zero risk that someone can work out your configuration. An .rsc file created with "show-sensitive" is just a text file and will contain ISP and wireless passwords. So you need to be more careful protecting it.

Security is important, but it is not entirely unlike when you loose your house keys.
The probabilities that they are found by a thief are small.
Even if they are found by a thief, unless you have a tag on the keychain with the exact address of the house, the thief has a little probability to know which door(s) they open.
And anyway a thief would have no issues in opening your door without your keys.
Even if there are no vulnerabilities in the RoS, it is much more likely that your (mine, everyone's but those by real security experts) setup has this (or that) one weak point.
And it is not like you cannot put the .rsc file in an encrypted archive, a simple .zip or .7z with a password (yes, the one you will have forgotten when you need to review the file) is more than enough to implement some (minimal but good enough in practice) security.

Thank yoU!!

having this file ios awesome I can copy this into a new router piecewise as I wish!!!!! even the firewall chains!!!!

ok this below is my wifi configuration from the file can you take a look? is there anyhting that I am missing in this config? all is working fine but maybe there are tweaks I am unaware of!!

/interface wifi channel
add band=2ghz-ax disabled=no name=channel1 width=20/40mhz-eC
add band=5ghz-ax disabled=no frequency=5500 name=channel2

/interface wifi
set [ find default-name=wifi1 ] channel=channel2 channel.band=5ghz-ax \
configuration.country=Italy .mode=ap .ssid=(SSID TAKEN OUT) disabled=no name=\
wifi1_5ghz security.authentication-types=wpa-psk,wpa2-psk
set [ find default-name=wifi2 ] channel=channel1 channel.band=2ghz-ax .width=\
20/40mhz configuration.country=Italy .mode=ap .ssid=(SSID TAKEN OUT) disabled=\
no name=wifi2_2ghz security.authentication-types=wpa-psk,wpa2-psk
add configuration.mode=ap .ssid=(SSID TAKEN OUT) disabled=no mac-address=\
(MAC ADDRESS TAKEN OUT) master-interface=wifi2_2ghz name=wifi3_guest \
security.authentication-types=wpa-psk,wpa2-psk

ciao,
Antonio

Thank yoU!!

having this file ios awesome I can copy this into a new router piecewise as I wish!!!!! even the firewall chains!!!!

Yes, but only when you remove existing chains before you copy/paste the new ones!
Always check what configuration exists when you paste an export.
E.g. for your example, you cannot just paste the /interface wifi channel because that says "add band...".
You can paste /interface wifi because that says "set ...". Except for the "add configuration.mode".
And you also should not copy MAC address, so you need to remove that first.

So, not very easy. But possible, yes.

You cannot "really" copy configuration between devices, not even the same exact make/model.

This can work if you go through the script very carefully and double-check. The key things I've found to watch out for are static IP address assignments and MAC addresses. But I only trust a script on an identical model. I also wouldn't entirely trust a script from an older version of ROS with an up to date version. So yes, lots of caveats. IMO it's better to maintain a detailed configuration guide in Excel, LibreCalc or Google Sheets. This is for my home/experimental hAP ax2:

only point to mention when you get about 5/10 meters from the device the signal strength already drops.

Interesting you should mention this because I've been doing a LOT of experimentation and research in this area. I must be bored. It was triggered by me demoting my Virgin Media Superhub to a modem and using a hAP ax2 as my main router/firewall/access point for a small house but with very thick stone walls.

I've got a very cheap Wi-Fi AC repeater in the kitchen that boosts the signal from the main router for wireless access in the garden. This was struggling to maintain a decent connection to the hAP ax2 whereas I never had any problems with the VM Superhub (which is Wi-Fi 5). It's taken me down the rabbit hole of 5GHz, Tx power and DFS/radar. Not sure where you are but in the UK these are the powers of the various 5G channels:



If you've not defined the frequency on the 5GHz interface, it's feasible it's selecting the channel 149 or above. These are non-DFS channels so radar interference is not an issue but they're low power at just 9db compared to 25 on channel 100. My VM Superhub always seem to prefer channel 116/5580 which is a respectable 24db. When my hAP ax2 is on the 25 or 24 Tx power channels, my repeater works. If it falls back to 5180 with Tx power 18, it struggles.

NOTE: if you manually define the frequency on one of the DFS channels, I'd recommend a list, e.g. 5500, 5660, 5580, 5180 and make sure you include the last one 5180 which is non-radar. The reason is that if a radar event is detected in the future and you only have one frequency defined, the 5GHz interface is turned off! Having 5180 in there at least means the 5GHz interface stays up albeit at lower power of 18. ALSO if you include 5580, then you also need to make sure "Skip DFS channels" is disabled on ROS 7. The default is to skip 10min CAC which means 5580 would never be used.

hi,

I'm based in Italy and yes I have only the 5500 defined because my hp laptop was not picking up the 5 GHZ wifi and someone told me that it was probabaly because i needed to set it lower so i chose 5500.
thanks for the heads up i will include the other frequenmcies you suggest.

I'll also check your suggestion:

"Skip DFS channels" is disabled on ROS 7. The default is to skip 10min CAC which means 5580 would never be used."

ciao,
Antonio

by the way this is my 2 GHZ config:

add band=2ghz-ax disabled=no name=channel1 width=20/40mhz-eC

Good choice for ax3. Besides the external antennas ( the best wifi router in the world is limited by the output/capabilities from devices, so having good ears to hear is more important IMHO than raw output power ), the ax3 has a USB port and better throughput. For a 1 Gig fiber connection you will be able to use the full signal using the ax3, whereas the ax2 may not.

hi yes, thanks i ordered the ax3 device should get it next week will configure the same as trhe ax2 i have.

i need it for my second home when i work from home which has larger rooms, those goofy antennas are pretty big!

GHi,

a question

every time i reboot the AX^2 router my pc loses internet and need to reboot the pc as well!!

the wi fi come up fine!!

how can i solve this?

Rebooting a router is highly disruptive to all LAN ... the fix would be not to do it.

In particular: is your PC connnected directly to router (either by wire or wireless)? If not (e.g. there's a switch / another AP in between), then PC doesn't notice that LAN got disrupted and assumes it doesn't have to do anything about its config. This may be even more important if router has some "smart" config enabled, e.g. "arp=reply-only" which assumes that DHCP server populates ARP table ... after router reboot this table is empty and if PC doesn't notice router being rebooted, it won't try to renew DHCP lease. (In this case disabling and re-enabling PC's LAN interface would help, with wired connection unplugging UTP cable for a few seconds would do).

hi Guru

thanks for this advice will do!!!!!

let me outline in bullet points:

1) yes I have ROG strix PC and is connected to an HP G5 docking station i get power also through the USB C cable, so i get power /LAN /Video/ Audio all through the usb c.
so this is good practice to reboot routers only after finishing working in the evening!

2)second point i finally managed to block porn on my guest wifi IP range through a destnat rule to send DNS to OPEN DNS servers.
works fine on those "hard core sites" but on lighter type strange sites it just giuves the recommendation but doesn't actually block...

3) so i did more investigating and playing around and the ax2 wifi 2 GHZ has some trouble penetrating the walls to my bedroom about 6 meters from the device, the 5 Ghz is able to give a stronger signal this is probabaly due to the frequency itself i suppose?

ciao,
Antonio

A good fix is to not reboot routers unless it is required to upgrade software or install an additional package. MikroTik routers do not need to be rebooted after a config change or after some uptime.

Next time you face the same situation anyway, instead of reboot the PC try to unplug the network cable for a few seconds.

A good fix is to not reboot routers unless it is required to upgrade software or install an additional package. MikroTik routers do not need to be rebooted after a config change or after some uptime.

Next time you face the same situation anyway, instead of reboot the PC try to unplug the network cable for a few seconds.

thanks for this heads up will do next time!

anyhow when i go to my office i never leave the mikrotik on, I shut down my mikrotik router through a proper shutdown forom winbox and just shut all the rest of ther devices.
then of course when i turn everything back on the router reboots and then i reboot my pc and everything works fine!

Presuming your PC runs windows, check that the DHCP gave it an address.
When everything runs well, open a command window and run in it:
ipconfig /all
take note of three values for the (cabled) network interface:
IP address
Subnet mask
Gateway
Then reboot the router and run again the same command.
Very likely you either have no values or you have APIPA (beginning with 169.254.) IP address with netmask 255.255.255.0.
If this is the case, try running:
ipconfig /release
ipconfig /renew
and then again ipconfig /all to check.

hi

yes i proceeded with the exact steps outlinerd by you rebooted and yes the ipconfig /release & then ipconfig /renew fixed it!!

so that did the trick!!! so no need to go taking outn the cable or shutting down the pc!!!

Yes, it is entirely possible that it is the docking station that creates the issue, the connection (to the router) is lost but the PC believes that it is still on (because the connection to the docking station remains unaffected) and this creates the problem.

You could try one of the available freeware tools that allow renewing the DHCP lease through a GUI, there are several ones, see if this (old but good) works on your system:
https://www.softpedia.com/get/Network-T ... -GUI.shtml

What's wrong with good'ol command line and ipconfig /renew ?

What's wrong with good'ol command line and ipconfig /renew ?

Nothing, but sometimes it is easier to just click a couple of buttons.
The issue with the specific command line is that /renew and /release should be in theory followed by the connection name in order to only renew that connection, and this often starts to be a PITA.
What I would do, personally, would be to write a small batch file, but usually when I suggest that, the OP replies "Oh, my God, an ugly black window flashes on the screen!" and then I have to explain the use of nircmd or similar tool that can hide the running batch window.
Maybe in the specific case (but cannot really say if it would help/resolve the issue) the OP could set a fixed address delivered by the DHCP to that specific PC (its MAC address).
In a perfect world I believe that could be solved by forcing a renew on the whole lan but I believe that the FORCERENEW provision in RFC3203
https://www.rfc-editor.org/rfc/rfc3203.html
is ignored by many if not all operating systems.

guys,

thanks!!

for me ipconfig /renew is fine! I connect my laptops alweays to docking stations here at home i created a working environment and wanted all the comforts of the office!!

I'm a geek I love flashing lights on the switches and black windows popping up on the screens

hi ,

just to not create a different thread.

regarding PoE on AX2 & AX3 is it the external device that automatically requests PoE or does PoE need to be abilitated before connecting the external device on the Mikrotik router?

ciao,
Antonio

The PoE power is activated automatically, if the connected device supports it.

PoE in itself is a nightmare, due to the complexity of the "standard" and the (slightly) different way each device manufacturer/vendor implements them (differently if not wrongly).

PoE in Mikrotik is a worse nightmare, as different models have different characteristics (active 802.3af or at or passive) and for *some reasons* they use mode B while many other vendors use mode A, then there are current (in the sense of Ampere) limitations, you need to study a lot before being able to have a working solution unless all devices are Mikrotik (and even then ...).

The Ax2 and Ax3, namely, are low voltage (max 28 V) and passive only.

The allowed output current is limited to 600 or 625 mA, which at 24V are 14-15W, enough only for a camera or a simple access point.

The auto-on provision only tests the resistance on the ethernet cable:
https://help.mikrotik.com/docs/display/ROS/PoE-Out

active 802.3af or at or passive

This isn't limited to Mikrotik - Ubquiti was in the same boat with older Unifi devices. Passive PoE was introduced to reduce complexity and therefore cost. That cost saving might not stack up these days.

active 802.3af or at or passive

This isn't limited to Mikrotik - Ubquiti was in the same boat with older Unifi devices. Passive PoE was introduced to reduce complexity and therefore cost. That cost saving might not stack up these days.

Noone said that it was exclusively Mikrotik, as a matter of fact the passive, low voltage, approach - when suitable - is (IMHO) easier to deal with than having to fight against the different implementations of 802.3af and at by different vendors.

I never had to fight against 802.3AF/AT implementations! It always "just works".
But of course it requires way more hardware than "passive PoE".

I never had to fight against 802.3AF/AT implementations! It always "just works".
But of course it requires way more hardware than "passive PoE".

When it works, it works, when it doesn't it doesn't.

Recent example:
viewtopic.php?t=202381

When it works, it works, when it doesn't it doesn't.

Isn't that always the case I had a very weird problem with a CSS106-1G-4P-1S (SwOS) recently. It was supplying PoE to a UISP Nanostation Loco 5AC, part of a short P2P bridge. It had worked flawlessly for several years until about two weeks ago when the access point end (hard wired to RB40111 router via that switch) started dropping packets randomly. EMCO Ping Monitor showed fine for 10 minutes then big packet loss. It's currently bypassing the CSS106 and is working fine. But it took me hours to pin it down to the switch as, you know, switches just work Lesson learnt! I digress..

Recent example:
viewtopic.php?t=202381

In my case I use HP or Aruba switches and I use them to power all kinds of devices (telephones, APs of different make including MikroTik) and I
have never seen issues. So it looks like the problems are limited to MikroTik switches powering other things, not the reverse.

Guys,

thanks you really outdid yourselves with the answers . I was just asking to make sure i don't fry my brand new Gaming PC

Guys,

I activated both the 2GHZ and the 5 GHZ on my AX2, when watching videos etc, seems that everyone is always only activating the 2 GHZ wifi ? probabaly just for demo reasons?

In any case if the 5GHZ can pump out 700 MB why have both active and not just leave this one?

just my 2 cents.

ciao,
Antonio

Because as you move in your place or as obstacles come in the way between your client and AP, that 5GHz signal might quite fast become unstable.
And then 2.4GHz might still be used perfectly.

To sum it up:
2.4 GHz sucks (because it is slow and - in densely populated areas - polluted by countless conflicting radios).
5 GHz sucks even more because it won't go through walls (or any other thing thicker than a sheet of paper) and let's not forget the real or fake radar interferences, 10 minutes cac's, etc., so it will work (fast enough) or not work.

A candle (in the wind) vs. a blinking light, compare with the light of the sun (a good ethernet cabled connection).

Since you are Italian, "Se sei bello ti tirano le pietre, se sei brutto ti tirano le pletre". (for non-italian readers, this was an old song, translatable to "they throw stones at you, no matter if you are ugly or beautiful").

To sum it up:
2.4 GHz sucks (because it is slow and - in densely populated areas - polluted by countless conflicting radios).
5 GHz sucks even more because it won't go through walls (or any other thing thicker than a sheet of paper) and let's not forget the real or fake radar interferences, 10 minutes cac's, etc., so it will work (fast enough) or not work.

A candle (in the wind) vs. a blinking light, compare with the light of the sun (a good ethernet cabled connection).

Since you are Italian, "Se sei bello ti tirano le pietre, se sei brutto ti tirano le pletre". (for non-italian readers, this was an old song, translatable to "they throw stones at you, no matter if you are ugly or beautiful").

did some more testing in the room behind where the AX2 is sitting seemed to get full signal on both 2GHZ and 5 GHZright now 2 GHZ is pushing about 150 MB 5 GHZ is pushing 350 MB

Maybe a surprise
Under ideal circumstances you can get up to 400mb on 2.4GHz AX.
Been there, done that.

400 millibit/s is quite easy to achieve, even with smoke signals.

2.4 GHz sucks (because it is slow and - in densely populated areas - polluted by countless conflicting radios).

This depends upon your definition of slow. Many UK consumers are still on fibre-to-the-cabinet where the maximum you'll ever get is 80Mbps. My hAP ax2 with Wi-Fi 6 devices can get ~120Mbps which isn't bad. Office use is a different beast though.

Slow is defined (in my personal dictionary) as something that makes something else underperform, everything Is relative.
I see your many UK users and.raise with many italian users that get with FTTC "target" 30 MB, actual 20-25MB.
Meanwhile, in many cities there is available FTTH with 300/500/1000 guaranteed bandwidth (in download).
Now, if you have an ethernet cabling at 10 MB and have a 20 MB internet connections your network Is slow.
But as well an ethernet cabling at 100 MB with a 500 or 1000 MB internet connections is slow.
If you have a GB ethernet cabling, a 1000 MB FTTH and you use WiFi capable of 100/120, your WiFi Is slow.
The fact that is fast enough for facebook, lolcats and porn doesn't change its classification as "slow".

400 millibit/s is quite easy to achieve, even with smoke signals.

Good catch

I see your many UK users and.raise with many italian users that get with FTTC "target" 30 MB, actual 20-25MB.
Meanwhile, in many cities there is available FTTH with 300/500/1000 guaranteed bandwidth (in download).

I see many semi-casual users that have 2500 in download and that are complaining "my GB ethernet is so slow!!"

anyhow devices in the same room as the AX2 its pushing more than 200 MB on 2 GHZ and more than 700 MB on the 5 GHZ

by the way I'm using the destnat to get some of the LANs on the AX2 to the OPEN DNS so no porn

only my trusted LAN has the ISP DNS

Please, stop calling megabits as MB.
MB = megabytes
Mb = megabits

Please, stop calling megabits as MB.
MB = megabytes
Mb = megabits

and:
mb = millibits

and:
mb = millibits

or millibarns though more commonly inverse squared gigaelectronvolts are used:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Millibarn

anyhow devices in the same room as the AX2 its pushing more than 200 MB on 2 GHZ and more than 700 MB on the 5 GHZ

I've just got 160Mbps (ducks in case I've got the suffix wrong) on 2.4GHz sat right in front of my hAP ax2. Pretty impressive as the 2.4GHz channel is pretty congested here. I need to read up on the Wi-Fi 6 voodoo magic some more as it how to manages to get such high speeds compared to Wi-Fi 4. It's clearly making more effective use of the same bandwidth.

Please, stop calling megabits as MB.
MB = megabytes
Mb = megabits

excuuuuuseee meee

hi Gurus ,

yes I'm working on VLANning now

I created a VLAN bound to port eth5 of the AX2 and assigned an IP address to the VLAN.

I then tried setting up DHCP but told me couldn't set up DHCP on a slave interface, so I set up the DHCP on the ethernet interface 5 but seems that the DHCP wasn't assigning IP to my computer ( connected through a docking station)

then what I did was I created a Bridge and included eth5 & VLAN and set up the DHCP server on the bridge and Lo and behold the thingy assigned an IP to my PC

is this right?

I'm playing around with these configs because the real scope is to get a Mikrotik CSR switch in the following weeks and want to connect my computers to the LAN through the CSR, it through VLANS.
so in the future the client PCS will be getting the IP assigned through the CSR connected to the AX2.

then what I did was I created a Bridge and included eth5 & VLAN and set up the DHCP server on the bridge and Lo and behold the thingy assigned an IP to my PC

is this right?

Although it works, it's not the recommended way.
See here for some study material:
viewtopic.php?t=143620

This documentation points to the prefered way as through VLAN tagging?

VLAN handling over 1 bridge.
Should always work, regardless of device type.

For some devices it is possible performance gains can be obtained doing things slightly different (see relevant pages for that in Help).
But the generic VLAN handling using 1 bridge will always work.

VLAN handling over 1 bridge.
Should always work, regardless of device type.

For some devices it is possible performance gains can be obtained doing things slightly different (see relevant pages for that in Help).
But the generic VLAN handling using 1 bridge will always work.

thanks!!

this is probably the most logical way to work with VLANS!!!

I just want to understand why it's working :

currently i have :
VLAN BRIDGE
-bound eth port 5
-bound VLAN interface ( bound to eth port 5)

IP range assigned to VLAN interface pool but DHCP assigned to the bridge!!

probabaly because at the end of the day the DHCP server just sees a pool??

therefore all I really needed was:

VLAN BRIDGE
-bound VLAN interface ( bound to eth port 5)

it would have worked also i can imagine!

this is probably the most logical way to work with VLANS!!!

Not sure that's not an oxymoron

Read that linked material again and again and again since you are making some conceptual errors.

VLAN interface needs to be attached to bridge, not to ether port
DHCP then needs to be attached to VLAN interface

thanks I will read the documentation!

but i just want to get the initial process straight as i have one question:

step1) CREATE a BRIDGE
step2) CREATE a VLAN interface and bind to the above created Bridge
step3) CREATE an IP pool and Bind to the VLAN interface and create a DHCP server for this

don't I also need to bind an ethernet port to this Bridge??

Reread documentation please.

Obviously those ethernet ports need to be connected to bridge. Only your WAN interface not IF you have a separate WAN connection.
If the device is completely used as bridge/switch, all ether ports are to be connected to bridge.

Recommended reading about all the bridge personalities: viewtopic.php?t=173692

It should help understand VLAN tutorial better.