Alternative connection schemes for home network

This is only marginally related to specific Mikrotik hardware, even if schemes 2 and 3 could use a GPERx4 (GPERi14) and the currently installed TP-LINK Access point will very likely be replaced by a cAP or wAP (WAF shouldn't be a problem as the current TL-WA1201 has been accepted).
The current setup is a (basically) a "FWA with outdoor CPE" as installed by one of the leading ISPs in Italy (TIM).
A LTE outdoor modem/router is installed on a pole on the roof, powered by a PoE PSU placed in the attic. In the attic there is also the "main" router (ZTE H388X) and a connection (physical CAT6 cable) to the TP-LINK TL-WA1201 which is PoE powered (passive 12V) which is in a corridor. There is another connection (physical CAT6 cable) to another room on the floor under the attic.
Now, more than seldom (but not really often) there is the need to power cycle any of the three devices (Nokia, ZTE or TP-LINK) because something is not working. Usually both the ZTE and the TP-link can be rebooted remotely from the network, but I have not access to the Nokia to reboot it from the network, I need to physically unplug the power brick from mains.
Lately it is happening more often than before that the one that needs to be rebooted is the Nokia and it is quite a PITA to have to go up the attic to disconnect and reconnect it.
The actuall internet speed the (LTE) coonnection allows is - on average - 30 Mbits or so, in very lucky days (actually nights) it can go 50-60 Mbits top.

In order to make troubleshooting easier (I do suspect that there is an issue with the Nokia PSU but have not yet made tests) and more generally making my life easier for the future, I plan to move the power supply of the Nokia and the main router to the room, so that I have easier access to devices and can plug/replug them if needed.

I know that the bottle neck will be the single connection attic-room, and while it may be possible to add a new connection (another cable) it is not exactly easy to do, and for the moment I prefer not to go into the trouble of it (these CAT6 cables are not exactly easy to pull into conduits).

So I came up with three different schemes (I am attaching them) that could (should) solve the problem, at least temporarily.

Schemes #2 and #3 are essentially the same, the only difference is the way the TL-WA1201 is powered (from mains or from PoE).

SInce the TL-WA1201 is currently running OpenWRT I could - if needed - see if I can configure it as router/access point (as opposed to the current plain bridge/access point) and/or replace it with a cAP AX or a wAPAx.

GIven the actual (low) speed of the ISP connection, even if I downgrade the attic-room connection from 1Gb to 100Mb (scheme#1) it should - I believe - make not that much difference,

The other 2 schemes should be better, and using the GPERx4 I would have the possibility of power cycling the Nokia from command line.
On the other hand the TP-Link TL-SG1005P-PD has a function (if it works) to power cycle automatically not responding devices).

Thoughts/ideas/reports of similar experiences would be welcome.

P.S.: only as a side-side note, I did have in the "drawer of things that may come useful one day" a pair of (supposedly) RJ45 splitters, but upon inspection, and even if I checked that at the time I bought them that they were sold as "splitters" they are actually (good for nothing) RJ45 couplers (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 of the single port go all to both other ports on the same respective pins), so I had to order a couple of (hopefully) proper splitters (where the 1,2,3,6 of the single port go to 1,2,3,6 of one of the two other ports and 4,5,7,8 of the single port go to 1,2,3,6 of the remainig port).

Is your attic ventilated ? It sounds to me that something is maybe overheating ?

It wouldn't be strange in this heatwave.

I have similar setup to your scheme 3 where I have ATL5G as a backup link but Unifi doesn't allow you to tag more than one VLAN on WAN port so I have a switch between ATL and unifi to separate MGMT and WAN VLANs.

IMHO i would go with schema 3, everything standard PoE, use Ubiquiti PoE injectors if possible, never had any problem with them and I have them everywhere. Leave everything on 1 Gig, you never know, maybe someday you get better coverage. 30-50 mbits is quite low unfortunately.

Yes, the possibility that something is a bit too hot for its own good is also my first suspect.
Hence the idea of moving the whole stuff to a fresher (and more accessible) location.

Scheme #3 is "cleaner" (in my perverted mind), but in that one if I unplug the PoE PSU and replug it both the Nokia and the TL-WA1201 will power cycle, while in scheme #2 only the Nokia will (while I can still reboot the TL-WA1201 from its interface), surely #3 is easier, and even if only one of the two devices is having issues resetting both shouldn't do any harm.

I cannot find any detail on the Nokia, the original power supply is marked as using 1,2,3,6 for power, if the thingie is actually 802.3af/at compliant it should power just fine with power on 5,6,7,8 (which most Mikrotik PoE out enabled switches will probably use) but you never know. BTW, the original power supply is 53V 0.6A so a little more than 30W and that is exactly the "soft-spot" where most Mikrotik devices are limited in current.

You can always disable/enable PoE on the uplink port that goes toward LTE modem. GPeRx4 is running swOS Lite so there should be that option.

I know, it's more complicated then simply unplug the PSU.

I tried to find something about Nokia PoE injectors but found nothing... Datasheet only provides compatible injectors...

I mean, it's possible they are doing some proprietary sh*t with poe. I can't find if they are using standard PoE.

Well, it is marked as such on the power supply, but we all know how the standards are "interpreted" by this (or that) manufacturer in such a way that sometimes they become non-standard.

So, in mode A pins 1,2,3 and 6 are used for PoE.

In theory PoE capable device should be able to accept both standards but I think that safer option would be some kind of converter.

Did you never consider a smart power plug which you can remotely switch on/off ? That way you can simply keep using the original PSU.
Or maybe there is no wifi connection up there ? Be careful though the AP it connects to, isn't also depending on the power coming out of that plug. Been there, done that, learned that lesson.

If it turns out to be a heating problem, you can even put up a fan with a similar plug and then (based on some temperature reading) switch that fan on/off based on temperature.

(I'm into home automation lately ...)

That's what I wanted to suggest but then remembered... What if the internet is down ? Plug is unreachable then because most of them requires internet connection...

Now I believe it's possible to create some kind of local system that doesn't require active internet connection.

I'm testing Knot Embedded LTE4 and HA right now.

I use Homewizard smart plugs with Home Assistant. They don't require internet, just need a functional local IP network.
You only need cloud for updates with those.
My full home automation keeps functioning even when internet access is down.

You can automate the switching off and on using local Home Assistant server. Even send commands to Tik.
You can run Home Assistant as container or even as app if your Tik device supports it.
(I use dedicated mini-PC with Proxmox and run it as VM)

That could be one of potential solutions.

I'm using new Knot to reset remote devices if needed and HA is great and free tool for that. Also HA is running on dedicated VM on proxmox.

But back on topic, I don't know if @jaclaz would like to complicate this simple task even more.

What I would do is would use switch that's running ROS and created a simple script that will check if Nokia GW is reachable. If not i would reset PoE on that port for some period of time. Only problem is that Nokia is using A type poe where power is on 1,2,3,6 wires.

@jaclaz did you maybe consider to change outdoor antenna to Mikrotik maybe ? :sweat_smile:

Yeah, sure, if budget isn't a problem, the lowest priced Mikrotik switch that:

  1. has PoE out 802.3af/at compliant (for the particular meaning of compliant when talking of Mikrotik and PoE)
  2. can run RouterOS

Should be the CRS112-8P-4S-IN
https://mikrotik.com/product/crs112_8p_4s_in
which can be procured for a mere 180-200 €
and - besides the doubt about compatibility (Mode A vs. Mode B) it has a 450 mA out limit, which is - at least in theory - 3/4 of what the original power brick supplies (0.6A).

@holvoeth
I am philosophically againt Home automation (and Home Assistant and similar).
If I went that way then I would probably use a cabled ethernet relay or - maybe - finalize my unfinished project to use an old hap lite as such.
But in any case those would be an added layer of complexity to the setup.

A not-so-smart plug (a remote controlled 433 Mhz one) would probably be more reliable than anything HA/Tuya/Zigbee and similar and surely much simpler to install and operate.

That would be the simplest solution. Shame they are using A type of PoE...

Only for the record/for future memory, I just found a small device that - strangely enough for something on sale on aliexpress - is seemingly well documented:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007771500784.html
it is also on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Gigabit-Extender-Cascade-Repeater/dp/B0DLFX6L14
and e-bay.

Specification

Support IEEE 802.3af/at/bt power supply
Support DC 5.5x2.1 port input power supply
DC Input Power Pin: positive inside (+), negative outside (-)
Support non-standard PoE 48-57V power supply
Uplink input power supply PoE pins: 1/2(+), 3/6(-), 4/5(+), 7/8(-)
LAN1-LAN4 output power supply PoE pins: 1/2(+), 3/6(-)
PoE total input power: 90 watts
PoE total output power: 72 watts
Maximum power output of a single PoE port: 25 watts
Transmission distance: 100-250m with Cat5e, Cat6, or higher
Ethernet speed: 10/100/1000 Mbps
Network management type: Unmanaged

The 25W limit (if it applies to the port and not to the device) neatly makes it non-802.3at compliant, the device becomes the PSE and as such it should deliver 30W, still it looks nice.

I have found remote power controls that are hardwire connected (RJ45) and which have selectable local and remote control options, as well as watchdogging. I use the latter to monitor connectivity to my provider, and if it drops, it bounces thier POS equipment by itself (the location of this was unattended for years . . .) No cloud BS required for local control, and a web UI on the unit.

https://5gstore.com/product/13529_5gstore_remote_power_switch_2_outlets_remote_automation_and_remote_rebooting_app_controlled_uis-722b

The site seems a bit cheezy, yes, but I have run 2 of these for 5+ years, and they have been solid and supported. (Amazon sells them as well).

Just one more option . . .

Yep, thanks :slightly_smiling_face:, I have seen quite a few Aviosys IP Power 9258's around, they are similar, but with 4 outlets, and I believe it is relatively easy to find used units in the 60-80 € range in EU.

The vendor I linked also has single port devices, I just have no experience with them.

Testing now scheme #3 using:
802.3bt Power supply: Ubiquiti U-PoE++ PoE, 60W, 48V, 1.25A
Passthrough PoE switch: TP-Link TL-SG1005P-PD

The 802.3af 48V to 12V converter for the TP-LINK TL-WA1201[1] is an el-cheapo no name from Aliexpress I had around, as well the mini switch 2 in 1, which is powered from a USB port of the ZTE H388X.

Evrything seems like working fine[2] , but of course it needs to be seen how it behaves over time.
And then I will need to try enabling the little switch on the TL-SG1005P-PD for "PoE Auto Recovery" and see how it behaves.

[1] The original TP-Link mains power supply for it is 12V 1.5A, so in theory 18W, strictly speaking slightly more than 802.3af 15.40 W but the splitter seems to be working fine, without any sign of overheating.
[2] Temperatures recorded with my high precision thermometer (my right hand :wink:):

  1. UPoE++: barely warm
  2. TL-SG1005P-PD: barely warm
  3. 48V->12V splitter: barely warm
  4. 2 in 1 mini switch: lukewarm