CRS112 just died on me - 48V connection an issue?

CRS112 just died on me. It doesn’t want to turn on.

I needed to move it, and I disconnected power - not 100% sure, but I think I first disconnected default 24V, leaving 48V PS. Later on the switch doesn’t power up at all.

There is nothing in documentation that I noticed regarding this. Have I made an error that killed my switch?

I tried opening it to see if anything was burned inside, and no component looked like it died.

Any info on this?

It should not matter. I would try with one power supply at a time, if you have different ones, try those.

From your description, this is the poe version of the switch, if it was not then you could also try to power via poe in.

Yes, this is PoE version, CRS112-8p-4s-IN.

I tried with only 24V, 48V, and different 24V PS (I have another CRS112 here) and it didn’t work.

So it is dead and that’s it?

If it’s under warranty, I would rma it. if not, perhaps someone else can give you things to check on the board itself for repairs.

It is under warranty. Will return it!

Just curious, is the 48V adapter supposed to be able to power the device alone, or it requires 24 AND 48 volt PS’es?

It’s in the manual: https://help.mikrotik.com/docs/display/UM/CRS112-8P-4S-IN#heading-Powering

You can use either one or both inputs at the same time> . This will also affect the PoE output functionality

The device can run on either voltage to power the device. The device will use the highest voltage connected to it to power itself though.

Thanks guys.

Hello
I’m getting the same issue with a few of ours CRS112
It was powered with a 24V power supply for 2-3 years
And we swapped it with a 48V because we change the AP behind it.

Like atomicduck we are getting the same problem after a power shutdown, the switch will no longer boot.

We tried to power it back with the 24V and it’s not working too.

Hello, these switches are not good. They have a design issue where you can touch both the case and the lead when you are plugging the switch in, causing the switch to burn.

Apart from that, I have had issues with that switch over clients, so when I need PoE switch I almost always use the full size 24p one now.

The small one goes only if I need total silence.

You will have to replace yours.

In theory, the device runs on a much lower voltage (like - say - 12 and 5 V), the power you connect it to is converted down.

So the converter circuit has more work to do when you power it up with a higher voltage.

If one or more component is already “stressed” it may be “just working” with a lower voltage but decide to give up on a higher one or - even at the same voltage - when you boot as usually there is a peak of power needed at boot, typically (this is common on many electronic circuits) the capacitors fail and the board doesn’t power up anymore.
Or it could be the voltage regulator chip.
If the first, repair should be inexpensive and easy, if the second it may not be worth it unless as a DIY repair, and finding the IC might be difficult.

Thanks for the info.
We will just replace them it will be easier.

If you will use the same device, just remember to first connect the PSU to SW, and then connect to power.