Hi so I was going to buy the Mikrotik 5gG Chateau D53G model from a guy selling it for someone else. I want to to use this with a 5G SIM as the current router ain’t giving better speeds than my phone. The router appeared to switch off after like a minute. He held the reset button a few times. But it appears that after I put in my SIM it didn’t turn off but the the WiFi light didn’t turn on but signal light was on.
I didn’t know if it was faulty so left it. But am I correct in assuming that we should have connected the router to a laptop/pc with ethernet then enter the config page to enable WiFi?
As you say, it is an assumption.
Obviously how a device will behave depends on its configuration.
In the case of a brand-new, still in the box, device, its behaviour should be known/repeatable, in theory when doing a reset the default configuration should be the same as new, but in practice for an used device it could boot (or not boot) with any service or interface enabled or disabled, so yes, when looking at an used device the first thing should be to connect to its management interface (also to make sure that user/password is valid) and see how it is set.
That particular model has also been reported as having issues in some cases with default configuration (after reset): http://forum.mikrotik.com/t/chateau-rbd53g-5hacd2hnd-config-problems/151625/1
and there could have been issues with the upgraded (or not upgraded) OS with the different wifi drivers/packages, see (same model of device): http://forum.mikrotik.com/t/d53g-5hacd2hnd-update-7-13-no-wifi/171958/1
Depending on the date the device was manufactured once the device is reset the credentials will be either:
older devices:
user:admin
password:
newer devices:
user:admin
password:<written in teeny-tiny characters on a sticker on the device (and on a sticker on the instructions, if available>
The configuration may be largely blank (for “professional devices”) or a “default one” (for consumer and soho devices), but what happens is that a script is run, so (again it may depend on the model) this base script may have been modified, in this sense a reset to factory may not be a real reset to factory, it is a reset to default configuration, but this default may have been changed.
Maybe an excess of caution, but with used devices, you really never know what may be inside them.
There is another procedure that allows to start from fresh (keeping or not keeping the configuration) called netinstall: https://help.mikrotik.com/docs/display/ROS/Netinstall
that is often advised as there is the possibility that for whatever reasons there are some “hidden” settings or “corruption” in the filesystem or to clear as much space as possible, as seen in the mentioned thread.
Have the router connected via ethernet and SIM card inserted with 4 bars. Ethernet is blinking, I’m trying to log in with 192.168.88.1 but it doesn’t load the page. Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?
Thanks, will do after work. So about 6 hours from now.
Btw after reboot realises the wireless option disappeared and only showed WiFi and there was no radio and master was in red. I went back to what it was on 7.1.5.
Then I found out you have to install QCOM package. So might try updating again.
This is strange.
A package like qcom should be installabile in any moment (i.e. also after the installation of the main routeros package).
Maybe you can try a new netinstall, making available both the routeros and qcom package.
Wait a minute, the d53g is this one: https://mikrotik.com/product/chateau_5g
it is an AC device, it should use the wifi-qcom**-ac** package, not the wifi-qcom, which is for AX devices.
It is confusing, but read carefully:
Well some good news and bad news. Flashed QCOM AC instead of just QCOM and the WiFi started working.
But the randomly reboots. Well if playing a long YouTube video or doing a speed test. This is with WiFi and WiFi disabled. Like when it’s under load? Wth heck is that all about!?
Yep.
Your device specs:
DC jack input Voltage 12-28 V
Max power consumption 23 W
Max power consumption without attachments 17 W
would require no less than 17/12=1.42A@12V or 17/24=0.71A@24V
or - better - 23/12=1.92A@12V or 23/24=0.96A@24V
Still, if Mikrotik sells with it a power supply with 1.2A@24V, they may have their reasons.
This one should be the original one: https://mikrotik.com/product/saw30_240_1200gr2a