Since you can connect to the router using MAC address, and since there is apparently no sensitive data in your configuration yet (unless you get a public or global IP address on the WAN), open the terminal window, type /export file=thisismyexport in it, go to the file menu, download the file thisismyexport.rscand post its contents here between two ` signs. The contents is a plain text. Before posting, remove the serial number and software id if you want to stay really anonymous.
Thank you for reaching out. I have circled back completely from a clean reset and figured out my mistakes on the way:
the static IP of the bridge was already taken in my network on the RB5009, and
it was assigned with /32 instead of /24
After fixing that, I got DHCP working, and I can now connect to my router through IP, as it should.
My only question remaining is why the port LEDs only works for ether1 and not any of the other ports. Maybe that’s a part that blew when exposing the device to POE?
The Hap ax S was connected to a RB5009 in “auto on” mode (802.3xx I suppose). I tried with ether1 and ether3 initially, because I got the config messup above.
Your post actually triggered me to check out the /system/leds/ options. It seems that removing the config after a reset also removes the LED settings. By configuring them back in, I now get blinky LEDs again.
Not sure if that is regular behavior, but it works…
So device is not broken (phew), but removing the config and starting from scratch seems to have some quirks I was not aware of.
Regards,
Chris
/system leds
set 0 interface=ether2 leds=led2
set 1 interface=ether3 leds=led3 type=interface-activity
set 2 interface=ether5 leds=led5 type=interface-activity
add interface=wlan1 leds=wifi2-led type=interface-activity
add interface=wlan2 leds=wifi1-led type=interface-activity
add interface=ether4 leds=led4 type=interface-activity
Only for the record, Mikrotik devices make however a check on the resistance of the powered pairs, if It Is below 3KOhm no power will be applied and if It Is less than around 26.5KOhm only low voltage (up to 28V or so) may be applied.
Depending on device model, there are up to three "default configurations":
an empty one
a "router" one
a "CAP" one for devices equipped with physical wireless interfaces
(plus a custom "default config" may be installed using netinstall, e.g. if ISP gives the Mikrotik devices to clients and wants that config to be "reachable" by the "reset to factory default" procedure rather than the actual factory default).
So the outcome depends on what exact steps you've taken to "start from scratch".
Thank you very much for your help and clarifications! This got me back on the right track.
@sindy, re. reset: I have reset into “router” by pressing the reset button on power up, until the LED flashes. Then I have selected “remove configuration” after login from winbox, which seems to have erased all configuration options, including LED settings. That was confusing me, as I would have expected these basic things to still remain.
But to be honest, if you ask the system to clear all configuration, you shouldn’t be surprised that it does .
Thanks again and have a great rest of the week,
Chris