I would like to install my RB411 outdoor.
Due to the sunlight I’m worried about temperature inside the case.
Avoiding coolers, what should I use: the plastic outdoor case (CA/OTS) or a metallic one (without any cooling system, just a box)?
Thanks.
I use metal cases, and a fan. I am in Florida, and the heat and humidity is way up there. Hope Tom doesn’t mind me doing a little blatant advertising for him.
http://www.roc-noc.com/product.php?productid=98&cat=1&page=2
Remember to use metal standoffs in all mount holes. The RB units count on that to complete the ground circuits.
EDIT: Fan does not exchange inside/outside air. Just moves the air around inside the box.
My apology for the double-post, but I wanted you to see this.
If you use those metal boxes, you MUST use some type of anti-seize on the case lid screws, or they become one. Mr. Zog’s Wax (surf wax) works great if no Never-Seize around.
You can also use the GREEN Loctite/Permatex
I don’t like to use fans in outdoor cases because they are not necessary in my area and they don’t last forever. I have been installing outdoor radios for about 10 years and that is much longer than the life of a fan.
It doesn’t get that hot in Illinois but we usually have a few days in summer above 100 degrees F (38 C) and winters get below 0 degrees F (-18 C). I have many outdoor aluminum enclosures on my network in direct sunlight. They are all sealed with no ventilation. I have not had any heat of cold problems with RouterBoards except for the RB112 which had cold problems. Some of them would stop working when the temperature dropped below 0. I replaced them with a lot of bad language and RB532 boards. The problem went away.
If I did have a heat problem, I would try a passive cooler like a heat shield. In our area I would put the shield on the NW side of the case and also covering the top. Space it at least 1 inch away from the case for air cooling. The idea is to block direct sunlight exposure and allow the air flow to remove the excess heat between the shield and the case.
Tom
BTW I use the Laird/Pac Wireless DCE-H-7x6x2 for RB411 and RB532 family boards and The larger case that SurferTim pointed out for larger boards. Good call on the anti-seize compound. I’ll probably use the automotive variety though as we don’t have many surf shops in my area.
We use the same enclosures in Panama, where it is summer 365 days a year, and I never had a 400 series routerboard fail due to heat.
Just make sure your boxes aren’t black on the outside 
Oh. I use plastic self-adhesive standoffs exclusively, and have had no problems.
There’s nothing in the user manual about grounding the boards.
What might the consequences be of inadequate grounding?
Blown ethernet ports from static discharge. This can happen during an electrical storm or from dry blowing snow. It happens in our area so I generally ground all my boards that attach on towers or are mounted high on a building. I also ground most of my APs and important PtP feeds. I don’t bother to ground most of my CPE unless it has a history of static damage.
Tom
if you connect your grounding to the box only, you are protecting the box, not the router.
http://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Grounding
also see attached file
big_outdoor.pdf (773 KB)
the file you added when downloaded it ses file.php
cant open the attachment you sent please resend
works fine, try another browser
thanks that works what can be the reason for the biffrent browser
proxy maybe?
old browsers have all kinds of security and compatibility issues, be careful
but it new ie formated this pc a month back
This forum uses industry standard PHPBB3 forum software, if your browser has problems with it, it will also have problems elsewhere. I strongly suggest use anything except IE, it’s the most incompatible and insecure browser.
Just friendly advice
its the most commen browser
i use firefox but must be able to work with ie
as ereyone uses it over 300 users
I didn’t make PHPBB3, it’s the most popular forum software.
i see thansk for the support