Questions on CSS610-8P-2S+OUT Netpower lite 8P

Hardware MikroTik hardware general
1

Couple questions on netpower lite 8P:

Does the product code ending in OUT mean it’s outdoor version of identical CSS610-8P-2S+IN indoor version?

Can anyone confirm the ports can be configured to for POE auto, on, or off. I have some 48V passive devices that would need hte “on” setting and its not clear if this device or switch OS lite allows it.

Anyone have a link to the green terminal connectors that take you from small screw terminal to the green keyed power port connection that look like Phoenix contact type connections?

Also – what 48 or 50 or 54 volt power brick would you use with this to get up to the full POE budget it offers. I was thinking 54 volt or so would be nice to help with voltage drop.

Can you recommend an outdoor UV proof cable (direct bury capable nice to have) that is 2 or 3 conductor. I might use 4 conductors (two pairs) combined for each + and return of outdoor CAT5E cable but was thinking thats equivalent to 18 guage and could probably do 16, 14, or even 12 gauge stranded multi conductor wire. Wondering what makes sense for the terminals at the switch and also to get it wired into a decent power supply – maybe a meanwell w/ screw terminals at the supply end.

Thanks for any insight! It seems this switch is rather new — the UPS battery backup feature at 24 volts is really slick also.

2

Yes, it is essentially a CSS610 in a different case, with more powering options and with PoE out.

Connector should be:
https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-us/products/pcb-plug-mc-15-2-st-508-1836079

At 48V+ voltage drop is usually not much relevant unless you have excessive distance.
You can use a PoE calculator inputting manually the resistance of your chosen power cable:
http://poe-world.com/Calculator/
but it is a convergent re-iteration, you need to know the distance, try a cable resistance (using some common sense) see how much voltage drop/power loss you have, change to a larger (or smaller) gauge, see again what happens, etc.

Generally speaking I wouldn't even THINK of a direct burial cable, a small PVC conduit costs cents per meter and allows - in case of need - to replace the cable.
As well, I would want to use a 4 or 6 wires cables, to have some spare conductors, you never know.

The device is rated for 208 W max power consumption (this includes the PoE output on all ports + the SFP modules).

As always with Mikrotik devices when it comes to PoE the details are missing, confusing or plainly wrong.

In theory 8*0.64A=5.12 A which, at 57V make 291.84 W. :astonished_face:

BUT the max output is 120W, so, at a more conservative 48V 120/48=2.5 A, that divided by 8 is more like 0.30 A per port, so 48Vx0.30=14.4 W each (if all ports are used) more or less 8x802.3af devices can be powered or 4x802.3at.

In any case the stated 208 W max power consumption should be accurate, so still at "standard" 48V 208/48=4.33A, to which you add some loss, it means that you want a 5A@48V power supply, for Meanwell, that could be the XDR-240E-48 or maybe a RSP-200-48 would be enough .

When Mikrotik states "PoE out 802.3af/at" it usually means "PoE out both passive and 802.3af/at".

SwOS lite should have the same settings as SwOS, namely you can choose for each port among on/off/auto.

3

@jaclaz Thanks so much for the info. We will definitely run / use existing conduit if we can – it’s an industrial site and they can dig and add conduit no problem. It would be temporary on the ground and in it’s final setup the power and one data connection will be flown from this light pole to the new construction office trailer I figured direct burial would help in it’s temporary run through some “woods” type deal LOL.

Good idea on 4 or 6 conductor. Phoenix contact says largest guage is 16 may go with that or 18 gauge multiconductor or some type of landscape outdoor UV proof wire.

Thanks a ton on the info for terminal connector from Phoenix and the Meanwell supplies. I’ll calculate the power budget actual – it’s basically an Ubiquiti gigabeam (will use outdoor 48 to 24 x 0.5 amp passive converter for that – actually 2 gigabeams) and then a Wave Nano that will need the passive 48 on 2 pairs. and then a unifi AP probably U7 Pro outdoor which will run on 802.3at “auto” mode. One port will be “off” for an uplink inside the final trailer where there is a 16 port switch and UDM currently along with a slew of other office gear. Enjoyed building the setup and need to move 4 radios on the trailer to the pole so we can replace the trailer and move the old one to a new location. This netpower switch beautifully solves the issue of a decent enclosure, excellent temperature range (it’s cold here in New England!) and by default it passes tagged and untagged VLANs and will make it aware of vlans I’m using once it works in the default setup.

I’m going to order one of these now from a distributor that seems to have like 147 in stock!

Cheers.

4

I cannot reason in "your" gauge metrics, however in "our" ones, 18 gauge is 0.75 mm2 and 16 gauge is 1.5 mm2.

The 0.75 mm2 seems to me a bit small.

The 1.5 mm2 seems a bit large, but when it comes to cables,within limits the bigger cross section, the better.

Probably the "right" size would be 17 gauge (1 mm2), but if you use the 16 gauge/1.5 mm2 you are on the "safe" side.

5

Was hoping you could answer another question.

This will be on non metal pole or wooden structure w/ no tower type ground.

The (-) return and ground lug on the back are connected in the unit.

Should I run 3 conductor to the unit and do 48 volt + and - and the 3rd conductor on the ground lug on the back and then at my power supply do 48 + and - and then bring 3rd ground to power supply earth ground? Should I also tie 48 volt - to earth ground right at the supply?

Or – can I run 2 wire to the unit and then just connect 48 V (-) at the power supply to the chassis ground lug on the input side of the supply.

I’m not sure the best way to deal with an earth ground for the unit since I don’t have anything at the place its mounting outside. I can also just run 48 v + and - and that’s it.

The meanwell supply the chassis earth is isolated from 48 volt (-) confirmed with meter.

Also confirmed the ground lug on the netpower lite 8p is connected to 48v (-) on the unit – checked that with a meter also.

Thanks for any insight on best practice for DC wiring to the unit and what to do w/ unit ground lug – run 3 wires and what to tie to ground where or run two wires and rely on unit has tied 48 (-) to the earth lug on the back.

6

For an outdoor device on a pole grounding (and lightning arrestor) should be granted.

In the help page for the device:
https://help.mikrotik.com/docs/spaces/UM/pages/354418756/netPower+Lite+8P
this is stated (though briefly):

The installation infrastructure (towers and masts), as well as the router itself, must be properly grounded. The device includes a grounding wire attachment screw on the backside.

  • Attach your grounding wire to the grounding screw.
  • Attach the other end of the grounding wire to the grounded mast.

This is what Mikrotik has to say (with more detail) in the user manual for the CAOTS:
https://mikrotik.com/product/CAOTS
an outdoor case for routerboards:

Grounding
The installation infrastructure (towers and masts), as well as antennas and the device itself, must be properly grounded, and lightning arrestors must be installed on all external antenna cables (near the antennas or on the antennas themselves) to prevent equipment damage and human injury. Note that lightning arrestors will not have any effect if not grounded. Note also that damages caused by static electricity and lightning are not covered by warranty.
Use 1 AWG (7mm in diameter) wire with corrosion-resistant connectors. Secure it on the grounding screw G with a lock washer L and a wing nut M. Be sure to check that the grounding infrastructure you use is indeed functional (as opposed to decorative-only grounding present on some sites).

So, I would run a (separated from the 48 V +/- cable) a large (1 AWG or 6 mm2) ground wire from the device to a grounding rod near the base of the pole, a 48 V DC lightning arrester like:
https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-pc/products/lightning-surge-arrester-type1-2-val-ms-t1-t2-48-125-11v-fm-2801533
on the power cable and a lightning arrester on the actual ethernet connection like:
https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-pc/products/surge-protection-device-d-lan-cat5-fp-2800723

7

Definitely go with 3x1.5 mm2 stranded and use ferrules. This is a really common cable type and it's available in any combination of rubber (to be trodden on), uv proof, steel armored, etc.

It seems to me that there really is no optimal way for grounding this. I would bring the +/-/gnd separately to the CSS, and connect the two there.

This setup also allows you to transition later to the more traditional setup of extending the AC, and then co-locating the PSU and the CSS.

EDIT: If there's no logistical difficulty around it, I'd definitely put two of these cables in the conduit, just in case.