We’re getting fiber internet, and the company that plows the fiber to the house is also going to put us a fiber cable between the house and detached garage/suite building (independent from the ISP, about 250 feet long).
I’m thinking I’ll get a router and switch with SFP to handle the fiber directly (instead of separate media converters they mentioned).
I’m supposed to be talking to them to collaborate the type of termination - Is there a type that I should be trying to ask for? (most common, cheapest to deal with, etc)
Recommendations for inexpensive equipment? Comments on design? It’s not a high demand residence, probably the most demanding is potential POE cameras.
For example, I’m looking at the hEX S router. The picture shows the SFP under “internet” label, but in my case it would be used for LAN. Is it an issue to configure it such a way?
The router would also feed an AP and other wired devices/cameras in the house from the ethernet ports, probably involving a switch to get more ports.
In the apartment/suite at the other end of the fiber, get a switch that again has SFP for fiber. It would feed an AP and possibly wired devices and camera. Maybe something like RB260GS? With the uplink on SFP, I assume all 5 ethernet could be used for devices.
When it comes to infrastructure prices, multi-mode fiber and SFP modules come cheaper than single-mode ones (the later is used by telecoms because it allows for much longer distances). Just make sure the cable is OM-3 or higher, lower-specced cables don’t support 10Gbps at those distances. If budget permits, go for OM-4 to be on the future-proof side. And have the cable installers terminate it with SC connectors. I’d suggest you to install cable with N*2 fiber strands, for duplex communication a pair of fibers is usually used and you want to have more than one pair for possible future expansion. Multi-strand cables are not much more expensive, splicing (terminating with connectors) might be more expensive than cable.
You can use any Mikrotik router with SFP/SFP+ port as a switch, functionality of each port is freely configurable (WAN/LAN) regardless of case inscriptions. However switching performance can depend on device model, some devices have SFP port connected to switch chip (good for switching performance between SFP port snd the rest of ports) and some devices have SFP port connected directly to CPU (good for routing but not so great for switching performance as CPU will have to deal with traffic). All (but recently announced) devices have block diagram published in their product pages and you can check the connection of SFP port there.
I like the suggestion but that probably won’t happen… If it was myself I maybe would, but it’s my parents place. It’s doing good to get the fiber to begin with (it’s working out to not cost extra besides the converters on the ends or else it probably would just be cat6).
There is 1-1/4" conduit for exactly the purpose of replacing or adding in the future though (vs trying to guess now).
I agree that would be nice, but it’s my parents and the cost needs to be justified. It’s probably going to be a 50/10 Mbps internet package so not like it should be high demand (it depends on the cameras but probably not many). So I don’t know how to justify spending like $300 vs $100 lol.
I did get confused looking at that though, and looks like there’s multiple RB5009 models. At first I thought it had active POE which may save getting a POE switch… but then I realized that’s an even more expensive model (more like $400 here in Canada).
It’s basically going to be whatever fiber cable the company has, it might even be the same flat cable as coming from the ISP (I asked and they said it could be, or a round cable).
We’re doing good to get fiber instead of cat6 it would have been - and part of the reason is just using the cable they have versus getting cable special for this. It just means their guy has to come terminate the ends.
If you are on the cheap, you can get away with two RB260GS’. one on each side of the 250 feet fiber, list price 2x$39.95.
The “main” router (in the house), for the low speeds you are going to get from the ISP, could be an Ax2 or Ax3 (99-139$) and you would save one AP.
Or even an Ax Lite (if you don’t need 5 GHz radio) for $59.
I talked to the fiber company, and they’re doing a single-mode with 2 fibers.
He talked about running into a splice tray and pigtail.
Is saying we could do basically anything for the pigtail, so I’m supposed to get back to him about what I want (what I get for equipment) so that he can bring or order it.
I’m guessing this splice tray will go near the router (like beside the ISP’s own) with relatively short pigtail, and he mentioned the pigtail going into the converter or router. When I mentioned a patch panel and patch cable, he didn’t seem too keen or to care at least. I still think that’s a good idea??
Anyway, which leaves the question of which connector, and if dual, for this equipment?
Hmm, that’s a good thought as well. I guess I was thinking it would be more direct to come off the router to the fiber, but it probably doesn’t matter much in that regard.
I’m not sure what’s happening with cameras, but much of the traffic might be between cameras and NVR on the LAN anyway, if we go that route.
Yeah, that’s pretty much standard procedure. It’s usually not a big deal, but if you ask nicely, they might throw in a 30-foot (or even longer) pigtail that you can roll up in the splice tray. That way, you can move it somewhere else if you need to.
Well, if you hadn’t this “fiber opportunity”, anyone would have advised you a CAT6 cable, 1 Gb speed.
With the two RB260GS, you need (for single mode fiber) two of these: https://mikrotik.com/product/S-31DLC20D-181
and thus get a 1.25 Gb connection.
A camera feed may be what 10-15 Mbps?
Higher resolution ones possibly 25 Mbps.
With 10 cameras full streaming you use in theory 1/5 of the link, you shouldn’t have issues.
The theory is that at every connection you loose something or introduce a possible fail point, so the idea of a fiber patch panel isn’t the best, IMHO, you would be introducing a complication (that has a cost, too) and it’s not like you have to swap fiber cables (as you only have one connection).
When I asked how long of pigtail he referred to them coming in all different lengths, including he had a 10 meter APC one or something. So they probably would give good length but then it gets overkill lol. Maybe 10-foot or so it could go anywhere on the wall?
Ya cat6 probably would have been normal, so the capacity here is getting overkill (if that’s possible).
Hmm that’s a good point about the connection adding a fail point (and cost). What I was thinking is keeping all part of their install fixed, including the pigtail - wouldn’t want to damage the pigtail when messing around or something, and then need someone like them to come back, whereas a patch cable I can just get a new one. I guess could try to protect it and fasten down the router.
I’m not sure what you’re showing about with the wall plate - isn’t that the same idea we’re talking about as a patch panel? This is going to be all mounted on wall and/or shelves in utility rooms, so nothing is going in walls. The patch panel idea is because I’m probably doing a panel for the indoor cat6, and if I just use another keystone slot for the fiber sort of thing.
Well, a wall plate Is 11$, a patch panel has at least 4 connector and It Is more around 70$, if you don’t see the difference, your parents surely will.
But yes, if you are going to make anyway a panel (why?[1]) you can add a fiber keystone to It.
[1] I mean, you are not going to put together a rack, you will have what? 8-10 cabled devices at the most
I was also looking at the module compatibility/recommended, and saw the RB260GS recommends two that are single mode: S-31DLC20D as you mention, and S-35/53LC20D. My understanding is the first is a dual LC connector and need the same on each end, uses one fiber for each direction. The second option is a matching pair that uses the same fiber for transmit and receive (using different wavelengths).
Is there any advantage to the second option, or just to use a single fiber? The dual fiber is cheaper anyway (2 x 29 vs 79), so seems like dual LC is the way to go with this.
If it’s going to be $70 I also say it probably won’t be happening either lol, I thought I’ve seen cheaper.
You would just crimp the RJ45 on the ends of the cat6 building wire? It would work, although there will probably be spare cables/jacks more than switch space and just would be nice if all the building wire was fixed in case something happens to the connector (I can crimp but my parents can’t )
Yep, but don’t take me as an example of “clean”, “neat” cables architect.
As long as something works, it is enough for me (I know people that buy patch cables with a given colour because they fit better in the environment).
I like orange cables, they give you a sense of calm urgency, something between yellow and red.
But now I understand where the misunderstanding lies , you are calling (maybe correctly) patch panel what I would call network socket box (to me a patch panel is something with two rows of sockets, one “in” and one “out” where I can put short patch cables to connect whatever in with whatever out, in a rack).
I’ve been pondering over different layouts and coming back to this thought. It might not be a bad way to go if I’m thinking right.
My automatic initial reaction was to connect the fiber as directly as possible (i.e. router), potentially for “best” internet performance. But going to the switch does free up to do anything for the router.
For example, I’m seeing a “hEX refresh” which is actually cheaper than the hEX S. It seems like it would have significant better specs (I’m not sure how the CPU compares but has more RAM/storage). And looks like a recent release so potentially more updated/longer supported in the future?
Or as you say it could be something with wireless, although I was thinking an AP in a better location.
Also, a lot of the fiber traffic would potential be from a camera(s) to the NVR, and fiber going to the switch could keep that traffic off the router altogether.
But then with the kind of load this will see it’s probably irrelevant lol.
I think we’re getting confused lol. What I’m calling patch panels is your second link called patch panels. The ones in the link isn’t $70 stuff though.
I was basically just wanting to terminate the solid building cables to something fixed and then short stranded cables to the equipment, rather than run the stiffer and permanently installed cables into the equipment… but to be determined whether it’s worth it.
The thing is many are rackmount… we’ll probably need some shelves for everything anyway so maybe it’s worth considering, but the rack stuff isn’t cheap! (which is maybe what you’re referring to)
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, you are calling (maybe correctly) patch panel what I would call network socket box (to me a patch panel is something with two rows of sockets, one “in” and one “out” where I can put short patch cables to connect whatever in with whatever out, in a rack).