SFP module is extremely hot

Pictures you can find all over the internet.

duck.com or yandex.com and press on the word/button “images” and before you search on the exact product name of you 1009 like: CCR1009-7G-1C-1S+PC

The SFP cages have holes in the top that let hot air out and you should not cover all with heatsinks. Also a heatsink need that the SFP is in contact with the cage. There is a little air-gap between the SFP module and the cage so that is not as effective. You are then only cooling the cage. The cage is heated by the heat radiating from the module and heat transferred back through the PCB.

The best cooling is moving cool air over the components getting hot. If you have a fan-less one then you could think of attaching a fan to the outside drawing air out through the air vents. Example see my active cooling the huge passive plate covering the RB4011 and the link is in my signature.

It is not clear to me how you attached the fan to the RB4011, what size fan it is, or how you are powering it.
Gather it sucks away hot air from the RB?
All to say not sure if its an applicable remedy for the CCR1009 7 series.
The CCR1009 has a huge heat sink in the back so perhaps I should blow air over that?

This seems to be it… I gather the heat is coming from the center TILE CPU block and is dissipated through the heat sink via the copper tubing.
It seems like a fan bolted to the top of the unit with some air gap sucking air away from the block through the top of the router would be a good retrofit idea?
Would mean removing the lid, cutting a round hole through and attaching the fan to the lid or on top of that metal block.

Only problem is that as noted before, I doubt there is a fan supply socket on the board??
https://yandex.com/images/search?text=ccr1009-7g-1c-1s%2Bpc&pos=59&p=1&img_url=https%3A%2F%2Fviva-telecom.org%2Fimages%2FMIKROTIK%2Fccr1009-7g-1c-pc_10.jpg&rpt=simage

That one is totally passive cooled. You see even a sticker on top of the SFP cage that may block one of the venting holes. I used a small 12V fan that is powered by byte tapping in on the 12V poser supply for my 4011…he is on diet you see.
I use plugs for putting screws into a wall and this one are small ones and the ends are just pushed into the slots of housing. The fan is very small and very light (20 gramm) so those two plugs pushed in hold it easily.

I have this one and there are different sizes: https://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/noiseblocker-it-fans/nb-blacksilentfan-series/50x50x10mm.php?lang=EN

A very small one and also thin and handles 24V: https://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/blacknoise-industrial-fans/blacknoise-nb-ip55-series/40x40x10mm.php

Stick on the left side to the front and suck air out or in and you will extra cool the cage of SFP a few centimeters inside. You can also put an extra fan(s) on top of the heatsink at back if that is really getting hot. I think that is not a problem and it a BIG heatsink.

Those copper pipes you see are heat pipes and they are very efficient in transporting heat from one place to an other. So bolting a extra fan on the top is not the first option to think about.

Video comparing a copper rod and a heat pipe and a heat pipe is just awesome. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OR8u__Hcb3k

Nice idea. That would quiet it down a bit. Did you disconnect the two fans in the back, and use the same fan header?

I’m not having any high heat issues with mine, but those two fans at the back are constantly running at ~4,300rpm which is louder than I would like. (my rack is the next room over from my office)

I might wind up trying this.

Have look at these: https://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/products/blacknoise-industrial-fans/blacknoise-nb-ip55-series/40x40x20mm.php#tab1

The 317 hasfour leads and that is to regulate the rotating speed. The I linked to has only three leads.

Great thread, there’s some interesting information here. I’m considering doing things like fan mods but am trying some less invasive solutions first. I currently only have 1 of the SFP+ ports in my CRS328 populated, with an S+RJ10, and the fans ramp up from their idle ~1.5k to ~7.5k RPM as soon as my desktop connected via that port wakes up. It’s very loud and unacceptable given how close it is to our lounge. It seems as if RouterOS is trying to keep the module temperature below 70 °C since it hovers at 68-69 °C.

I tried using two small heatsinks on the external part of the module using thermal paste, but they unfortunately fell off. I’m currently using an elastic band to keep them in place but it’s not doing much - the module temperature drops by 2-3 °C at most. I’m going to try thermal tape or adhesive pads instead but am not hopeful. I also plan to try the Alphacool 17427 heatsinks mentioned above since they might do a better job.

So far the best solution I’ve found is to manually configure my desktop to 5 Gb/s instead of auto-negotiating to 10 Gb/s. This results in the fans running at ~3k RPM with the module at ~65 °C, which is acceptable. Limiting the speed of the port doesn’t affect performance since my disk array will be the limiting factor beyond 5 Gb/s. However, I plan to hook up my server via a DAC, which I think means there won’t be an option for 5 Gb/s, only 1 or 10 Gb/s, so I’m hoping that DAC won’t heat up as much as the S+RJ10 module!

If you want to keep SFP temperature down and use 10Gbps links, then go with normal fibre SFPs and fibre patch cords. Fibre SFPs consume much less power and consequentially produce much less heat. Fibre patch cords tend to be less bulky than CAT7 cables or DAC cables which is good as it’s easier to organize them and bad since it’s easier to damage them (but not that easy so I’d go with fibre any time). Fibre offers better range as well … You can get DAC cables which are essentially combibation of optical SFPs and fibre patch cord. However they offer less flexibility (e.g. if you’re connecting equipment from different vendors, you can use SFP modules officially supported by each vendor … with DAC you mostly get same SFP on both ends).

All true but not helpful when using existing Cat6 infrastructure. :slight_smile:

Thank you for the url.
It looks from the picture you’ve posted that some of them are not flat against the transceivers. RJ45 connectors lock clip probably is up a little bit and interfere.

I’ve seen in SRJ10 general guidance that the recommendation are to leave 1 interface port empty and only use 2 in a 4 interface group. The same with 8 in a group.

I will try with this heatsinks though and use some kind of adhesive tape or pads or such for non permanent. Otherwise there’s adhesive thermal glue. For a more permanent solution.

@vbelousov

Did you use adhesive thermal tape or how did you mount the heatsinks?

From what temperature did you start without heatsinks and what was the final temperature with heatsinks?

Did you add any fan or something after your heatsink-mod?

Did you ever try the small heatsinks?