I used to mess with openwrt but mikrotik always been a mysterious routeros to me i finally decided to use it and im excited. My only last challenge is im confuse what model should be good for a beginner like me?
What @normis is saying (but in more words): in principle every device, running ROS, offers same functionality (apart from models with 16MB flash which is tight and doesn’t allow to install all the optional ROS packages). But devices differ wildly when it comes to capacity when running those functions. So if your main goal is learning how to ROS, then you can go with some low-end device (with consideration about storage/flash space). If you have in your mind some particular task for the device, then we might be able to give you an advice (or two), but you have to describe that task (in detail).
Mmm suppose im gonna using it for small business. Been looking through options there are alot of cool fancy stuff but i cant afford it. I believe my budget is like 200-260$
Yes theres actually a task in my mind. Because im planning to run small business offering wifi to neighbors through litebeam or powerbeam. Everything is planned and prepared exept the device that can manage and allow me to have control over users.
Any advice and tips highly appreciated and will be noted.
Same ROS but depending on the model they have different levels of licence that limits some functions eg. max number of connections: https://wiki.mikrotik.com/Manual:License
Of course the efficiency for small & cheap device is different than the big & insanepriced one Although the “insane priced” is quite cheap if you get fully flagged fast and supported for a long long time device in comparision to other vendors.
The “key” is IMHO your ISP connection speed more than anything else.
If it is below 1 Gb speed, you can get a hex refresh (or even a hap ax lite) as a first device on the cheap (with 5 or 4 ports) around 60$.
If it is 1 Gb the “right” device is the hap Ax3 (5 ports) 140$.
If it is more than 1 Gb - as BartoszP advised - go for the RB5009 (8 ports+the SFP socket) 220$.
Of course the latter is the more future-proof choice at the moment, and surely it is the “entry level” for a business offering like the one you plan, then the amount of customers/clients may make you shift towards a more powerful device, such as one of the CCR series, but the good thing about these Mikrotik devices is that - within limits - they can be re-used in other roles, as managed or “dumb” switch, just as an example, so you can start with any device and when you get a new, more powerful one, the old one can be re-used in other projects/setups.
All (not really all, but let's ignore this) MikroTik devices, RouterBOARD, have RouterOS inside, even the switches.
All RouterOS features are available in all devices (except things that require specific hardware),
so even a superfast switch, perfect as a switch, could act as a router, but with trivial performance.
So avoid any CRSxxx or CSSxxx
CRS3xx devices support L3 Hardware Offloading which can route and firewall at wire speed for some cases; the learning curve is steep. See forum topic how does L3HW actually works?
If you have tight budget AND firewall rules are simple AND client count is small then CRS3xx may work for you but don’t go this route without verifying your requirements fit within L3HW limits.
You want a plumber comparison?
Imagine that in your house there are 9 bathrooms , a kitchen, an outdoor tap in the garden and one in the garage.
That makes roughly 30 taps, each 1/2".
If you want to have all of them open at the same time you need to deliver to your home enough water.
Roughly, a 1" pipe will provide enough water for 4 such taps. So you need 6 or 7 of these 1" pipes. But a 2" pipe Is enough, still roughly, for 4 x 1" pipes, and a 2 1/2" Is enough for 6 of them.
In reality you can have reasonably at the most 10 to 20 of the 30 taps open at the same time and in a same bathroom you are not going to have more than two taps open fully a the same time so you can have distribution lines 3/4" and a 2" pipe from the main line in the road to your house is enough.
Along this water line you will have fitted at least a gate valve, a water meter and a second (gate or ball) valve.
Of course these will be as well 2" diameter, to avoid bottlenecks. If you fit smaller ones the amount of water available will be reduced.
Same goes for the main distribution lines, if you use 3/4" pipes, section valves will also need to be 3/4".
Internet and networks are not that much different in principle, the router needs to be able to let pass through all the speed and bandwidth the ISP can deliver, then the switch(es) and the network connections behind the router need to be able to distribute It.
But It makes little sense to have a router capable of (say) 5 Gb if the ISP cannot provide more than 1 Gb, or viceversa have a 1 Gb network if the ISP and router can deliver 5 Gb.
All elements in the chain need to be dimensioned in such a way to not create bottlenecks.
The easy way Is to get the most powerful devices available, if budget Is not an issue.
Since usually there are limits to what you can spend, you need to carefully estimate the needs/requirements first and then choose the hardware that can deliver what is planned at the lower possible cost, allowing some reasonably slack.
Forum members may be able to give you advice on the hardware that is more suitable to fulfill the requirements and possibly also help you in calculating these requirements, the more details you can provide, the more accurate/appropriate the advice can be.