Thank you for patience, xvo
I rebooted device and claimed, that this is RP-filter, which discard reply packed in strict mode.
I don't understand why... Suppose routers must use only loose mode?
So it was rp-filter after all?!
I think that is what was happening:
- the original packet was routed by tovpn routing table
- the return packet however didn't have any routing mark
- so rp-filter checking the return route for return packet checked only the main table
- but in the main table the default route points to wan port, not to vpn
- so rp-filter drops the packet