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Tanker
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12 months +

Sat Jan 16, 2010 2:15 pm

Thought you might find this interesting....

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eben
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Re: 12 months +

Sun Jan 17, 2010 12:26 pm

The moral of the story.

If nothing's wrong. Don't fix it.
 
Nenad
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Re: 12 months +

Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:45 pm

I noticed your router's identity name has the word "Solar" in it. Are you using this RB in combination with some solar panels? If yes, which ones? :)
 
Tanker
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:06 am

We use a panel called:-

SOLARworld
Sun Model SW75polly/RSE

- which is a 75 watt unit but I think many of these panels are "rebadged" to names which are commercial assemblies.
That's just my opinion.

Nevertheless - the trick is to get a good regulator to look after the battery.
On these BST's we use a 100 A/H Deep Cycle battery and they last for years.

Typical autonomy is ± 6-7 days during our worst rainy season, but as you see - we don't (hardly ever) have outages.

Hope this helps.

Tanker
 
Jamesy
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:19 pm

Hey, I'm working on my own solar setup and thought I'd ask a question. Are you using one battery at 12v or are you doing them in series for 24v?

What are you powering with 100ah and a 75 watt panel?

I see many people using 12v rather than 24v. I assume the biggest difference is cost??? ( I use canopy at some other facilities and they require 24v)
 
Tanker
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Apr 20, 2010 5:23 pm

yep - we use 12 V system 75W Solar Panel and 100 Ah Deep Cycle Battery.

Although 24V is a tad more expensive, and we have a couple of them on our network - you'll also require a voltage input regulator - i.e:
- the Solar Regulator cuts off at ± 28.8V and this will cause the RB433's to close down due to the high voltage. Using an input regulator (we use Meanwell rated at 4A (±$40.00)).
This will keep the input voltage stable at whatever you set it at.......

Hope this helps.

Tanker
 
Jamesy
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Re: 12 months +

Mon Apr 26, 2010 11:11 pm

hmm, I have a 433uah on a 24v solar setup with a sunsaver ss-10L 24v solar charger. The 433uah won't fully boot it seems. Just get the bip bip ever few minute or so. VOM at the load says 28.2v. I wonder if the board is shutting down because of that? (works fine on the bench over ac power)

In essence my solar charger puts 28.2v through at which point the 433 shuts down??? You're saying add an input regulator behind my solar charger to keep this constant?

Could you point me toward a model number from mean well that I could look into?

Rest of the story: radio is 60m out on a cat5 cable.
As a side note the sunsaver has a low voltage disconnect which turns off at 23v but I don't see anything in the pdf that would regulate input voltage at the load.

Is 28.2v too high for mikrotik?
 
Tanker
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Apr 27, 2010 12:39 pm

Take a look at this:-
http://www.routerboard.com/pricelist/do ... ile_id=137

My guess is the RB433 AUH and the RB433 AH have the same power components.

All I can say is that when the input voltage starts getting up to ±28V the board starts getting a little 'snippy" with reboots and - worse - complete shutdown. (Power Protection)
Most of our BST's are LOTS of kms from us and one of them is even 100m up a mast - so when they DO shutdown it is a HUGE irritation getting out to the BST to sort the problem - not to mention the 000's of incoming irritated client calls...!!!

We added a Meanwell input regulator and set it to 24V and it STOPPED all the hassles.
The model we used is SD-150B-24
Input Voltage 19 - 36V
Output Voltage 24V (there is a 1 Turn pot on the board to trim the output voltage) - Measure the voltage set point at the RB433 once it is set and before connecting.

The Meanwell does keep the voltage VERY stable.

The input regulator is inserted between the Battery and the RB433 and set to 24V.

All of this is also dependant on how accurate the voltage meter is that you are using.

Hope this all helps.

Tanker

As an aside:-
The NICE thing about the Meanwell is you can "double up" - ie: put two of them back to back, feed the one with 24V, and pick up the + and - off the 2 units for 48V - all rated at 6Amps.
Now - this sorts out the $%$#% issue with the RB800 and it's hissy voltage issue.!!!

So - in some cases we use 2 x SD-150B-24 up the Mast for 48V on the RB800 and then you can "stepdown" to 24V or even 12V for other RB products.
//
 
jcremin
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Re: 12 months +

Fri Jul 02, 2010 5:19 am

I know this topic is a few months old, but I was just looking at some boards on my network and found this one...
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shrick
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:13 pm

Hi Tanker

I'm searching through the forum for help on a major problem I'm experiencing... I'm so confused with all the mysterious things I'm seeing. I really hope you can shed light on my problem - would appreciate it so very much.

A summary of my situation:

I'm running a 24V solar system using this regulator http://www.stecasolar.com/index.php?Steca_Solsum_F_en - 10A version. My batteries NEVER goes below 12.0V during night time or cloudy periods. I check their voltages monthly, always reading 13.5+V. Thus, batteries I believe are very healthy. Average age of each battery is 10 months.

In the beginning, I had stability problems at this specific site (running RB600's). Its a 15m tower, with the solar panels, batteries and regulator at the bottom of the tower. The output of the regulator went up the tower to the RB's. The symptoms was that the router will just die. I'll drive out to the tower, find that the board was dead (no lights burning, nothing), pull out and push in DC jack, all fine again. Then after a few days, same problem.

I've tried 10 000uf 35V caps between the RB's and regulator output - no luck. Then, eventually I moved the regulator up the tower to the router boards and changed the gauge of the wire to a nice thick rip cord. Thus, the solar panel and battery wires now ran up the tower to the regulator. Note: I draw my power for the RB's from the output of the regulator, not directly from the batteries.

Anyway, suddenly my tower became stable, for 120+ days... this took me through the dry cold season. Then the humid, wet, and thunder stormy season started... this was about 2 months ago. All suddenly became unstable again, but with different symptoms.

The board will do random reboots and it will sometimes hang. When inspecting the board, its seem to be running, lights are burning etc, but the board is hanged (I'm running ROS 4.13). Have to pull and push the DC jack to reboot, all is fine for a while again. Note: All the equipment is in weather proof boxes. They are perfectly dry inside. All my RB's and antennas are properly grounded to the tower. Eventually I've also fitted a GSM module to remote reset the routers.

First I thought the solar regulator became faulty. Changed the regulator, no difference. Somebody mentioned that the diodes on the solar panels might be damaged. I've tested my solar panels individually, each giving an open circuit voltage of +-21.5V. Believe the solar panels are fine.

Then I replaced the router boards (did not replace wireless cards). No difference. I've also changed the system to 12V - no difference.

What is causing the instability? I've spend hundreds of hours trying to solve this problem and lots of money with no luck.

Today, the following started to happen: The board will reboot every 15min (with log entry, 'Probable Power Outage') - a clear symptom of a power supply issue?! I drove up to the tower, disconnected the solar panels, took the battery voltage (bank of 4 x 102AH deep cycle batteries) - all read 13.0V (cloudy day). Thus, batteries are fine... I then decided to take the regulator out of the equation. I'm now running this tower straight from the batteries, not solar panels connected. I want to see if the board can last for more than 2 days. If so, then I believe the solar regulator is the problem (but, remember this site was stable for 120+ days on this same make/type of regulator?!).

A friend of mine also recommended putting another regulator between the output of the solar regulator and the RB's. He recommended building it myself using a LM7818 with 10000uf 35V caps on the input and output.

Tanker, can you give advice? I see you are recommending the SD-150B-24 from Mean Well. I can get this device here in South Africa. Do you think this is my problem, that the output of the solar regulator is not nice and clean?

Would really appreciate any advice.
 
SurferTim
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:49 pm

@shrick: Maybe it is your Low Voltage Disconnect circuit in the solar charger that is malfunctioning. Try moving the power line to your router to the battery connection on the charger instead of the load connection.

ADD: Take voltage readings at the battery connection on the charger. A loose connection, or a bit of corrosion on a connector, and now there is not enough voltage at the charger, even though there is plenty at the battery. There are some really good weatherproofing "goo" available at electrical supply stores.

This cause would manifest itself at night or cloudy days (sound familiar?) when the batteries are providing almost all the power. There would probably be no problem while the solar panels have sufficient sunlight.
 
shrick
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Dec 07, 2010 6:36 pm

Hi Tim

Thanks for the reply.

I've rewired this tower probably 3 times in the past 4 weeks. There CANNOT be any bad connections. Your suggestion on taking the power feed to the routers, directly from the batteries - this is what I'm going to do if my current test (mentioned above) is successful. But I'll have to see what happens.

Is it safe to power the routers directly from the batteries (12V) or does one need some kind of voltage regulation, as mentioned by Tanker?

Thanks
 
shrick
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Dec 07, 2010 7:49 pm

The other thing about DC-DC converters is the 20-25% loss in power. Thus, you'll have to spec for additional wattage on your solar panels...

Thus, if I'm running a 12V system and feeding my RB's directly from the batteries, why would I need a DC-DC converter?
 
SurferTim
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Re: 12 months +

Tue Dec 07, 2010 8:07 pm

The 12v battery voltage (11-15v) is fine, as long as it does not go below 9v. That is what the Low Voltage Disconnect in the solar charger is supposed to prevent, along with the deep discharge of the battery (damages the battery). It sounds like in your case it may be disconnecting at a higher voltage than expected.

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