lazerusrm,
If you're connecting STP cable to an outdoor antenna, you absolutely do not want to ground both ends of the cable. A correct installation (rarely followed by todays seat-of their-pants WiFi installers) employs a Cat5e, PoE-compatible lightning protection devices (e.g.,
http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=10033) at the antenna side of the installation, before the cable enters the building. You must ground this protection devices to a real earth ground, which should be via a separate #6 AWG wire. Note that the STP cable shielding IS NOT the lighting protection ground path. The STP shield and drain wire is only for radio-frequency interference (RFI) and electrostatic discharge (ESD) protection. If you can't find an existing ground, then you must run one to a reliable earth ground -- which may mean driving an eight-foot ground rod (
http://support.radioshack.com/support_v ... /37710.htm) into the earth outside the building.
The antenna should have a metal lightning rod electrode extending a foot higher than the antenna itself connected to the same earth ground as the lighting protector. This can be any piece of pointed metal rod, but I recommend buying a lighting rod kit (e.g.,
http://www.glenmartin.com/catalog/lightning.htm), which provides all the correct attachment hardware to ensure the lightning rod connection is effective at diverting a lighting strike.
The ESD protection at the antenna end comes from the cat5e jumper cable between the antenna and the lightning protector. Generally this is only a few feet long, and in this case I recommend using a factory-built, outdoor-grade (waterproof, UV-resistant) patch cable, which will have metallic RJ45 shells on both ends. You can terminate your own, but factory cables will be better crimped and they are convenient and reasonably cheap.
For the cable segment from the lightning protector to the inside of the building, it is critical that you ONLY GROUND THE OUTSIDE END of the shield. If you ground both ends, you risk a ground path current loop that can cause signal interference, due to the ground level differences between the electrical system ground and the earth ground used for the lightning protector. This is why I say only attach the drain wire (and metallic shell) one one RJ45 in this cable segment (the outside RJ45). This also helps eliminate any stray induction voltage spikes induced by a lightning strike from entering your inside equipment.
I'm a longtime telco engineer with decades of experience installing all kinds of outdoor antennas and radios. I've seen many serious incidents where lighting destroyed equipment and even caused personal injury inside a building, due to improper antenna grounding. What I see today is uninformed installers hanging PoE radios with integrated antennas off a piece of shielded Cat5e with the drain attached at both ends. This is the definition of a lightning rod, and could easily get someone killed. As it is, I often encounter dead WiFi killed by ESD due to lack of proper grounding. Grounding STP to an inside device, such as an Ethernet switch or PoE injector, is not correct, or adequate ESD protection. The ESD potentials created by wind can easily overpower the very light-duty grounds in these devices. Only a properly grounded Cat5 lighting protector will deliver effective ESD protection.
I constantly hear the argument "but I've done it this way for years and never had a problem." The fallacy here is that the installer is rarely around to see the damage resulting from his shoddy installation work. As often as not, it's the inside gear that gets destroyed by ESD, helpfully guided into the building by the installers incorrect double-ended STP drain wire connection.
By the way, these are the same recommendations given by Ubiquiti, the seller of the cable you recommend:
http://www.ubnt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7003