so Mikrotik solution is to buy 5 times more expensive router? nice one.... if i knew it that hap ac2 is so pice of shit I wouldn't buy that crap - that my personal opinion. That's not a home router thats room router.The antennas are a physics thing, not a manufacturer thing. I would try a router that has bigger antennas, like for example the RB4011iGS+5HacQ2HnD-IN. That would improve very much the signal strength.
Calm down, MikroTik’s Wi-Fi isn’t their edge but still usable, 1st if all may I know what’s the current tx power running on 5GHz AP? U can find it on wireless-interface-status page. And how do u place the router? Since it’s internal antennas design so position is matter, not much impact but still useful if u wanna maximize Wi-Fi coverage.so Mikrotik solution is to buy 5 times more expensive router? nice one.... if i knew it that hap ac2 is so pice of shit I wouldn't buy that crap - that my personal opinion. That's not a home router thats room router.The antennas are a physics thing, not a manufacturer thing. I would try a router that has bigger antennas, like for example the RB4011iGS+5HacQ2HnD-IN. That would improve very much the signal strength.
Ive got standard 3bed house so is not a big. The router is located in the living room almost in the middle of the wall.
Calm down, MikroTik’s Wi-Fi isn’t their edge but still usable, 1st if all may I know what’s the current tx power running on 5GHz AP? U can find it on wireless-interface-status page. And how do u place the router? Since it’s internal antennas design so position is matter, not much impact but still useful if u wanna maximize Wi-Fi coverage.
So when your rotund noggin comes in between the router and the wifi device, the signal drops off dramatically??Not that accurately. My home mAP lite has 1.5 dBi antenna, according to specifications. But the lowest gain I can set is 2. They stole half dBi from me!
This is where the plot thickens, the Hap AC2's dont show powerOne thing that might explain the difference between hAP ac2 and the old wireless router is adherence to country regulations ... all wifi vendors are forced to do it since a year or two ago ... previously this was not really enforced. In "worst case" the difference might be as high as 10dB ... or a brick&mortar wall. So absolutely do verify actual Tx power (it should be under Current Tx power" tab) to see if this is the issue.
Maybe the interface is disabled?This is where the plot thickens, the Hap AC2's dont show power
hAP ac is quite unrelated product ... better wireless (tripple chain on both bands), SFP port and worse routing (single core MIPSBE CPU).Also HAP AC is indeed a very goord product...
Indeed In console it shows all zeroes for current Tx power ... One of beauties of wireless on ARM ...This is where the plot thickens, the Hap AC2's dont show power
mkx check out TX power rates with manual setting. It I believe shows what the default settings are!Indeed In console it shows all zeroes for current Tx power ... One of beauties of wireless on ARM ...This is where the plot thickens, the Hap AC2's dont show power
It's not just ARM, that is true for all 5Ghz radios in 802.11ac devices.Indeed In console it shows all zeroes for current Tx power ... One of beauties of wireless on ARM ...
Your approach to WiFi is wrong.so Mikrotik solution is to buy 5 times more expensive router? nice one.... if i knew it that hap ac2 is so pice of shit I wouldn't buy that crap - that my personal opinion. That's not a home router thats room router.The antennas are a physics thing, not a manufacturer thing. I would try a router that has bigger antennas, like for example the RB4011iGS+5HacQ2HnD-IN. That would improve very much the signal strength.
What i would do is get as many haps as needed and create wireless links using the 5GHz band and that way expand the network inside my house... The position of each hap should be carefully selected. This will give you better coverage, speed, bandwidth and in general better wireless quality...minimize the amount of wall by adjusting placement of the router on ground floor
That plastic foot actually "clicks" in the bottom of the hAP ac2. The current position of this acryllic plate is for wall mounting.
There is a LOT of misunderstanding in the wifi world. On-line shops still claim they have the more powerfull, very strong signal, APs. Far above the legal and usefull limits (26dBm( radio)+8dBm (antenna gain)+3dBm (2 antennas)). It does only give you a 5-bar signal reading on your smartphone, but not usable wifi.
Starting with "auto" as frequency is a totally unpredictable setup. It could be acceptable, but the outcome can be devastating. No one can tell how this will perform, it depends ... on the environment. And then setting installation "indoor", is like challenging that auto-algoritme while giving it a severe handicap to start with.
And we are not in the "coverage" era anymore, "capacity" is what one really wants.
Glad to see that more people recommend multiple accesspoints, having a single accesspoint in a house really makes no sense!
Besides, MikroTik wireless is incredibly stable. But...you have to do a lot of tweaking and need some knowledge about WiFi. @TS: expectations are incorrect (in my opinion) and you can do a lot of optimizations to your configuration.
1. with XXXX you have no control over which freq will be used, 20 MHz wide control channel (C) position can be Ceee, eCee, eeCe, eeeC. However with the non-DFS nature of that 5200 frequency , it will be eCee (5180-5200-5220-5240) by Mikrotik, as MT avoids mixing non-DFS and DFS appearantly. Check it in "status" of WLAN interface.For me frequency 5200 work very well. Now i have signal strenght in registartion table -55
/interface wireless info country-info "new zealand 5.8 fixed p-p"
ranges: 5735-5835/a,an20,an40,ac20,ac40,ac80,ac160,ac80+80(53dBm)/outdoor
The hapac2 is an excellent wired router for the price, can handle up to 1gig fiber connection.
What have surprised me is than is the only country than allow more than 30dBm...It says "p-p" ... which implies use of big parabolic antennae, where antenna gain easily surpasses 30dBi ... and that means power amplifier output of 2x 100mW (3dB+20dBm=23dBm).
Sorry, I meant to say up to fibre internet with ethernet copper ports - picky picky picky, you must have copious amounts of dried snot in the two biggest nostrils on the planet. ;-PThe hapac2 is an excellent wired router for the price, can handle up to 1gig fiber connection.
It can hardly handle any fiber connection ... it hasn't got SFP/SFP+ cage.
hahahah says the man from the land of phlegm ( I think you get the pun )I was thinking about the exact same remark so I'm glad I am not alone.
And I could predict that sort of response...