If you turn off and on 11 rule on first mikrotik, vpn is working.
In sniffer I see that ESP packages send from second mikrotik to first mikrotik.
I can’t understand why 4 rule doesn’t work.
Your problem is that your not allowing the actual decoded traffic in… You are allowing the encoded traffic, but if you follow the traffic flow diagram you can see that ipsec decoded packets appear as “input” on the external interface. Thus you need a rule like
/ip firewall filter
add chain=input src-address=10.0.0.0/24 in-interface=ether1-gatewayOr something like that… its a bit odd, but its the way it works in ROS.
The decrypted traffic is routed to the input or forward chain depending on the destination, so you would need input/forward chain rules to accept that traffic. It isn’t clear to me if you are testing traffic to the router or to a LAN behind the router as implied by mention of “site to site”.