Not 100% sure, but for 99% i think it will not work, as there are lot of other hw missing (transistors, resistors, synchronous buck reg. and so on and on.. )
It 100% can be added for sure, because CPUs in 750 and 750UP are the same.
If you trace up USB D+/D- tracks from the socket to the CPU, you will see that the only component you should add is L2 (and a USB socket, of course). L2 is a standard double ferrite coil, it is widely used in USB applications and can be easily bought. That’s gonna be enough for self-powered devices like an external HDD with a dc adaptor. However, if you want to power up the device plugged in, you can go several ways:
Cheaper and easier one: if you only want to conect a standard flash device and you use power adaptor included with router,you can simply add a 7805 and a 470uF 10v cap after it, then connect 7805 input to dc source and output to +5v track on the pcb that leads to the usb socket. This will give you about 100-200 ma/5v source on the USB socket, and it’s enough for most flash devices. And get 7805 insulated from main pcb for sure!
The right way: buy a small dc-dc 12v to 5v converter board, 500 ma output max, and wire it up to dc source and to the usb socket, place it somewhere inside the router box, not on the cpu preferrably , no extra cap needed this time. And get it insulated from main pcb for sure too!
The hard way: get a photo of 750UP board, see what components are installed (or even better, get a such board) and solder these to your own board. This is not the best way, and it will require non-beginner soldering skills + some advanced soldering equipment (a soldering station, for example). And of course, you can easily damage your router components on the PCB.
Considering its smaller size and compact design I doubt it has USB… but it would be way cool and ideal for a project I’m thinking about (instead of using the OmniTIK which is a bit bulky in this case).
Not suitable for my project (weatherproof housing, mounting on a sailboat mast). OmniTIK is the next best alternative, although a bit bulky due to the 5 port switch, only 400 mW and not available in 2.4 GHz.
hmm, Yacht mast, you want to provide wifi for whole port (or mariner) or just in it? If the latter RB751U-2HnD will be more than enough even w/o external omni, if you add omni, you could get coverage for small mariner. (And all that powered from the solar panel as other instruments )
I just want to fetch GPS position data (hence the USB port) through wifi from the lakeside. A simple, compact yet powerful and weatherproof device would be the best. OmniTIK is hopefully ok, I have to test the distance and how it’s performing while moving.
Hi! the process is possible, not too difficult, also on the new board 750r2
I’ve found a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nV4lrmNS3E
But soldering an 7805 or dcdc converter direct to power doesn’t let the function to reset the USB power if needed, and if the router is placed far.. it is needed.
So does anyone knows which pin of the missing sbilizer is used to reset power?
Looking at the picture it can be reasonable install the missing components, which are U600, C207, C206, C210, C208 and L200, not impossible.. sold under C315 two simple jumpers for both usb lines is also necessary