Heh, not to hard to find something.
https://www.amazon.es/Aukru-Disipador-heatsinks-Raspberry-Aluminio/dp/B07W9JTDFZ/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=raspberry+pi+heatsink+kit&qid=1613584822&sr=8-8
I know what you are thinking!!!
Gracias, tu llama real y amada
I remember it but can’t find it now. There are so many! Please send a link if you can or just the photo.
Hey. Better than my search results. Thanks.
That are two+two soldering points for extra power inputs. The plus is the one closest to the connector and you see the resistor which connrcts to the plus.
If you are not comfortable with soldering look at a splitter cable to be fitted in between the power cable and the power in connector. The fan comes with resitors cables.
The rj01 is known for his heat and there a different heatsinks that have bigger ribs.
http://forum.mikrotik.com/t/sfp-module-is-extremely-hot/117746/41
Do you know if anyone has added a fan to a CCR1009??
No and forum also not know that. But you can add a small fan on outside to suck air out close to the position of the SFP.
Seen from the back. Front right side. Powering the fan externally.
If you also using those HOT copper network SFP put also a heatsink on the outside.
Yes I do use mini heat sinks on the SFP ports.
Do you mean a fan sucking air away from the large heat sink on the outside of the unit??
Out of interest Anav, are those copper pipes (or heat pipes) your own retrofit or were they already fitted?
No NO, that looks like a stock picture of inside the CCR1009. It has those BIG copper pipes leading to the heat sink with large fins. THe fins get really hot, I think I could use them for cooking LOL.
Okay I see, the orange X, is where you recommend I somehow attach a fan to the unit to suck air out.
A. how to attach it to the unit?
B. how to power it?
I recently soldered new capacitors into a zyxel unmanaged switch so have some basic skills, just need pointing in the right direction.
That are two+two soldering points for extra power inputs. The plus is the one closest to the connector and you see the resistor which connrcts to the plus.
If you are not comfortable with soldering look at a splitter cable to be fitted in between the power cable and the power in connector. The fan comes with resitors cables.
OK, I think I see that, although the image is a little unclear. Could you confirm I have understood you correctly by taking a look at the image below? You say that each of those is a 24V outlet and the positive is on the left in each case? What is the max. current for each of these? If you don’t use a resistor would you just solder the cable directly to those points?
I am wondering now whether it might be easier (i.e. less physical modification to the board) to fit an internal PDU and power the fan directly from that, either with a splitter or using a twin output PDU, in combination with a step down DC-DC buck converter in line to the fan.
Ah, thought it was your image. Apparently the copper pipes work very well and the so-called “heat pipes” even better. Having seen this, I’m wondering whether just to add additional passive cooling with copper pipes and an external heat sink to my CRS-326.
I’ve just received my 12V Noctua FLX fan.
I just powered it from a 18V supply with 330ohm resistance in series with the positive line.
This is what I measured on the connection of the fan during power up.
As you can see there is no voltage spike above the 10.8 Volt. On average the voltage on the fan was about 7.5 Volt.
I’m confident that you can use this fan with a dropper resistor if needed
(I will use it to lower my RPM’s, if the airflow is not enough I can take the resistor out, as I will power my switch with an internal 12V supply).
If you are looking for the fan soldering pads and looked at the bigger versions of the 1009 which share the same boards. Just looking at pictures on the internet.
There are no components around those pad so likely also no power on the pads.
I would advise a power source coming from the outside. You can stick the fan on with little pieces of doublesided sticky tape.
If you look at the holes in the housing the flow of heat is mainly to the front. The heat of the processor is transfered to the heat sink at the back.
I assume the pads in the red squares are connected and in the blue circle you see the fan connectors with some componend soldered.
This is the 1009 with a bigger case and two internal power supplies.
Why 3 wires? I see a + and - on the previous diagram what is the third soldered spot for, closest to the back of the chassis??
I suppose one could check if they are powered by hooking up a multimeter? I wonder if that capacitor close by (11 oclock)is affiliated or not…
The third pin is there to know the rotating speed of the fan.
https://www.howtogeek.com/273575/what-is-the-difference-between-three-and-four-pin-cpu-fans/
It could be that the power is present and that the components are there to interpreted the rotating speed. But then if you seek 12V then those two of three pads is a good try.
Okay but looking at fans, I see we can get USB fans but what is ideal…
This looks Really promising,
Roughly 6 inches wide, 2.4 inches high and 1.5 inches deep
could the USB port on the MT run the fan LOL??
both require 5V, this is not noted on MT unit 
One fan requires .7A, the other 1A, seeing as the MT puts out 1A, the first one is more likely to work??
I can’t stand Amazon stuff anymore, however I posted earlier about other fans.
http://forum.mikrotik.com/t/sfp-module-is-extremely-hot/117746/41